http://www.zinio.com/express2?issue=206338267
(Thanks for Sharing Sharad)
Tuesday, July 3, 2007
Wednesday, June 27, 2007
Monday, June 18, 2007
Hot Weather Riding Tips
Original location:
http://www.soundrider.com/archive/safety-skills/when_youre_hot.htm
When You’re Hot, You’re HOT!
by David L. Hough
The ride south over the Siskiyou Mountains from Oregon to California started out cool enough. Up at 4,000 feet, it was chilly enough that I was glad I had added the jacket liner and neck warmer. But a hundred miles later, as I descend down into the Sacramento Valley, the temperature begins to soar. By the time I reach Oroville, the temperature signs are flashing 118 F. It’s another hundred and fifty miles to the rally site at Mariposa in triple-digit temperatures.
A rider passes by in the opposite lane, jacket bungeed on the back, bare chest exposed to the hot blast. I wave, but there is no response. His exposed skin is red, and he doesn’t even appear to have noticed me, a bad sign that he’s on the fringe of heat exhaustion. I don’t wish any problems on a fellow motorcyclist, but there are lots of riders who have to contribute to the statistics before they crack the code.
To continue the ride, I go into hot weather survival mode. Full riding gear, including riding pants, leather boots, and gloves, and a knit neck "cooler" saturated with water. As quickly as the fabric dries out in the blast-furnace wind, I flip the faceshield open, squeeze a gusher of water down my chin, and slam the faceshield shut again. The water dribbles down to wet the neck cooler and my shirt inside the jacket. About 10 seconds after the water penetrates the neck cooler, it cools from evaporation in the hot air, and sucks some heat out of my neck.
I stop at a fast-food outlet every few miles to replenish the water bottle with ice and water. Whether riding or stopping for water, other people stare at me in disbelief. Peering out of their air-conditioned cars, or sitting in an air-conditioned restaurant, they just can’t understand how anyone could tolerate being outside during a heat wave, bundled up in heavy riding gear.
Your body has automatic "thermostats" to protect the core organs from heat stress, including sweating, vasodilation, increase in heart rate and reduction of blood pressure. If these tactics don't keep core temperature within the redline, the body gives you warnings such as heat cramps. If you don’t take care of the problem, it gets more serious, including heat exhaustion and heat stroke.
Sweating
The body has sweat glands to keep the skin damp. The evaporating sweat sucks heat from the skin, and transfers it to the air. Of course sweat is primarily water, so it’s critical to keep replenishing the supply. That's one reason why we need to drink about a pint of water every hour during hot, dry conditions. One problem for motorcyclists is that at highway speed, the sweat glands may not keep up with the evaporation. Or, if the sweating uses up too much water, your body temperature regulating system goes on the fritz, like a dry battery.
Vasodilatation
To help cool down the core, blood vessels enlarge to circulate more blood (and therefore body heat) towards the skin. If ambient air temperature is lower than body temperature, excess heat can be absorbed by the air. But if the air gets hotter than the skin, the increased blood flow simply soaks up more heat from the air and pumps it back to the core.
Heart rate and blood pressure
The heart responds to increasing heat ("hyperthermia") by increasing the heart rate to pump more blood into those enlarged blood vessels. As the air temperature rises, heart rate (pulse) can increase 50% to 70% faster than the normal resting rate. The increased flow causes blood pressure to drop, and blood flow is shunted away from muscles and brain, towards the skin. Consider the implications of those changes on a motorcyclist. The lowered blood pressure reduces muscle control and brain activity, and more blood is pumped towards the skin--where it is vulnerable to road rash
Symptoms of trouble
The human body won't take much of an increase in core temperature without complaining. The symptoms of overheating are leg cramps, tired muscles, headaches, dizziness, and even fainting. The various symptoms are trying to tell you how overcooked you're getting.
Heat Cramps
Muscle cramps caused by heat usually effect the legs and lower abdomen first, then the arms. Heat cramps are a symptom that the body's electrolytes are running low. It’s not smart to ignore muscle cramps. Find some shade and take a break. Sip water or an "exercise" drink Exert firm pressure or massage the cramped muscles to relieve the spasms. If you’re still in pain, the recommended first aid dose is 1/2 teaspoon of table salt per half glass of water every 15 minutes.
Heat Exhaustion
Heat exhaustion occurs as the body continues to shunt blood away from the brain and muscles. Symptoms of heat exhaustion include:
1. Headaches, dizziness, nausea, momentary fainting
2. Cramps
3. Tiredness, weakness
4. Profuse sweating
5. Pale, clammy skin
6. Approximately normal body temperature
If you begin to feel these symptoms during a desert ride, take immediate action before you pass out. 1. Get into some shade, preferably into an air-conditioned room.
2. Loosen clothing and wet down skin or undershirt to increase evaporative cooling.
3. Slowly sip water, or salt water solution, same dose as for heat cramps. Avoid alcohol or caffeine.
4. If you feel faint, lie down and get feet raised above head level.
5. If you can’t keep the salt water down, get emergency medical aid. You may need an intravenous salt solution.
6. Even after you begin to feel normal again, consider staying out of the heat for a day or two. Your body needs some time to recuperate. If you are on a long trip, consider a 24 hour layover in the next air-conditioned motel.
Heat Stroke
If you experience heat exhaustion and just try to "tough out" the heat without getting cooled down and rehydrated, the body thermostats will begin to fail. Core temperature continues to rise (may go as high as 106 or 107 degrees F.), sweating stops, the heart beats even faster, and you may pass out. If you are coherent enough to recognize the symptoms, immediately get medical aid while you are still mobile. And watch your riding buddies for any of the following heat stroke symptoms.
1. Victim incoherent, staring vacantly, blanking out, or unresponsive
2. Skin hot, red, dry (no perspiration)
3. Rapid pulse
4. Body temperature elevated
Yes, heat stroke is life threatening. It’s a medical emergency. Don’t be bashful about calling 911 for assistance. In the meanwhile,
1. Get the victim into some shade, out of riding gear, and cooled down by any means available. If possible, get the victim into an air-conditioned room, or use fans to help provide evaporative cooling.
2. Repeatedly sponge skin with cool water or rubbing alcohol. Apply cold packs or ice cubes if you can get them. The goal is to get body temperature below 102 degrees F.
3. Don't give the victim any stimulants, especially not any alcoholic beverages.
4. If the victim's temperature begins to rise again, repeat the cooling process.
5. As soon as possible, get the victim to emergency treatment.
Avoiding the Ugliness
Even after a heat stroke victim has been cooled down and rested, the ugliness isn’t over. It’s not uncommon to have intestinal upset for a week or so, with food coming out both ends of the pipe. I know you’d rather avoid that sort of ugliness.
People from cooler climates often react to hot weather by removing clothing. That helps cool the skin--providing air temperature is less than body temperature. Heat transfers from a hot object to a cold object. Pick up an ice cube, and it feels cold. What’s happening is that the ice is rapidly absorbing heat from your skin. Even if the air is 89F, the air will absorb heat from your skin (assuming your body is around 99F). Now, consider what happens when you curl your fingers around a hot cup of coffee. Your skin rapidly absorbs heat from the cup, because the cup is hotter than your hand. The same thing occurs when the air temperature is hotter than your body temperature.
You may think your body is hot at 99 F, but it’s "cold" compared to air at 118 F. If you expose your skin to air that’s hotter than you are, your body just soaks up more heat.
The lesson here is that if air temperature is in the 80s or 90s, it helps to open up the jacket vents, or wear a mesh jacket. But once air temperature climbs above 99 F, the best way to keep from getting cooked is to keep your insulation on, and the vents closed. Desert nomads wear long, loose wool garments, both to keep the sweating skin in the shade, and to insulate the body from the hot air.
With the temperature in triple digits, I wear my leather gloves and insulated riding. My feet are down in the air stream that’s first been heated up by the pavement, and then heated some more by the engine. Are my feet hot? Sure, but not as hot as if I were wearing thin boots or shoes that exposed my ankles.
Same for the helmet. Wouldn’t it make sense to crack my visor when it’s really hot, or at least open up the helmet vents? Nope. Any hot air allowed to reach my skin will heat up the skin, not cool it down. Inside my helmet at 118F, I’m sweltering, but the temperature is probably under 100 F. That crushable helmet liner inside the shell is there to cushion my brain against impacts, but it’s the same expanded polystyrene foam they use to make insulated picnic coolers. So, the helmet actually provides insulation against the hot air.
One additional concern about exposed skin is sun and wind burn. Even if you wear heavy duty sunscreen to protect against a nasty sunburn, the wind at motorcycling speeds can also irritate the skin. If you’re riding more than a few miles, it’s best to keep your skin covered.
Evaporative Cooling
More physics now. When water evaporates, it cools down. Blow hot air through a wet bandana, and the bandana cools down. Cooling the skin cools the blood, which cools down the whole body. Evaporative cooling works best on areas of the body where there are large blood vessels close to the skin: the groin and the neck. A motorcyclist's groin is too close to the engine and too far out of the air stream. That's why wearing something wet around your neck is so important.
The bad news is that evaporative cooling only works well in dry climates. When the humidity is already high, (you're 99/99 in Missouri in August--99 degrees and 99 percent) neither perspiration nor the water in your neckband evaporate very well. Limited evaporation; limited cooling. But of course there is shade in Missouri, so the best tactic may be to simply take more breaks in humid climates. Or, you can ride early in the morning when it’s cool, and rest in the shade in the afternoon.
For those of us riding in the deserts of Washington, Oregon, and California, the air is relatively dry, so evaporative cooling works very well. A wet bandana around your chin will cool you for a few minutes, but the hot wind blast will quickly evaporate all the water. You need to keep replenishing the water every few minutes. Better yet, wear thicker fabric that holds a lot more water.
For instance, Aerostich makes an "Evapodanna" made of the same fuzzy material used in camp towels. ("evaporative bandana", get it?) You just saturate it with water, and wrap it around your neck. Occasionally dribble some water on it and it will continue to cool all day. There are also some tubular neckties containing special polymer crystals that soak up a huge quantity of water. They are an advantage for slow speed activities such as golf, but the crystals release the water very slowly, and can’t give off enough water at motorcycling speeds to provide much evaporative cooling.
Keep Your Tummy Tank Full
The other important tactic for hot weather is to drink lots of water, to replenish your electrolytes and refill your sweat glands. We’re talking at least a pint per hour. Exercise drinks containing "electrolytes" (salts) are acceptable, unless you have high blood pressure. And flavored drinks may be very high in sugar, too. Carbonated soft drinks are better than nothing, although it would be best to get the water without large doses of salt, sugar and chemicals. Almost all grocery stores and convenience markets have chilled filtered water in plastic bottles, handy for both drinking and wetting down your bandana.
More than a few riders carry a water bladder, such as a "Platypus" carried on the back in a fabric holster, or in a jacket pocket. Some water bladders can be pressurized with small pumps, and evaporative cooling wrappers are available to help chill the bladder. Aerostich is a good source of serious hot weather hydration devices. Aerostich: (800) 222-1994 or www.aerostich.com. You can also find water bladders at sporting goods stores such as REI in Seattle.
In hot weather, avoid alcoholic drinks. Obviously, alcohol reduces judgment. What’s not so obvious is that alcohol stimulates abnormal heartbeats, depresses the pump function of the heart, and actually dehydrates the body. Alcohol does all the wrong things for a motorcyclist in the desert.
So, when it’s really hot, keep your jacket on, and soak down your T-shirt. Wear a wet neck cooler, and keep dribbling water on it. If you’re getting too hot, or start feeling any hints of muscle cramps or heat exhaustion, don’t just keep riding. Take steps to cool down while you’re still thinking clearly. Take a break in the shade, or stop at a convenience store and buy a bag of crushed ice to stuff inside your jacket. The melting ice water will soak your gear and provide evaporative cooling even after the ice is gone.
Route Planning
In general, higher elevations are cooler. If it’s really hot down on the valley floor, consider an alternate road with a higher (cooler) elevation. Sometimes you don’t have any alternative other than crossing a desert. But you can adjust your schedule. One tactic is to hibernate at a cool motel during the heat of the day, and head out after dark, when the temperature is lower.
Adjust your thinking
If you live in a temperate area where the thermometer seldom rises above 90F, you need to readjust your thinking for those forays into hotter territory. Remember, insulate your skin from the sun and hot air, use evaporative cooling around your neck, and drink lots of water. Oh yeh, learn to ignore the stares of other motorists and dehydrated bikers who think you’re crazy to wear heavy gear on a hot day.
David Hough is a long-time motorcyclist and journalist. His work has appeared in numerous motorcycle publications, but he is best known for the monthly skills series “Proficient Motorcycling” in Motorcycle Consumer News, which has been honored by special awards from the Motorcycle Safety Foundation. Selected columns were edited into a book “Proficient Motorcycling” published by Bowtie Press. He is also the author of “Driving A Sidecar Outfit”. A pocket handbook, “Street Strategies” is also on the market as is More Proficient Motorcycling.
http://www.soundrider.com/archive/safety-skills/when_youre_hot.htm
When You’re Hot, You’re HOT!
by David L. Hough
The ride south over the Siskiyou Mountains from Oregon to California started out cool enough. Up at 4,000 feet, it was chilly enough that I was glad I had added the jacket liner and neck warmer. But a hundred miles later, as I descend down into the Sacramento Valley, the temperature begins to soar. By the time I reach Oroville, the temperature signs are flashing 118 F. It’s another hundred and fifty miles to the rally site at Mariposa in triple-digit temperatures.
A rider passes by in the opposite lane, jacket bungeed on the back, bare chest exposed to the hot blast. I wave, but there is no response. His exposed skin is red, and he doesn’t even appear to have noticed me, a bad sign that he’s on the fringe of heat exhaustion. I don’t wish any problems on a fellow motorcyclist, but there are lots of riders who have to contribute to the statistics before they crack the code.
To continue the ride, I go into hot weather survival mode. Full riding gear, including riding pants, leather boots, and gloves, and a knit neck "cooler" saturated with water. As quickly as the fabric dries out in the blast-furnace wind, I flip the faceshield open, squeeze a gusher of water down my chin, and slam the faceshield shut again. The water dribbles down to wet the neck cooler and my shirt inside the jacket. About 10 seconds after the water penetrates the neck cooler, it cools from evaporation in the hot air, and sucks some heat out of my neck.
I stop at a fast-food outlet every few miles to replenish the water bottle with ice and water. Whether riding or stopping for water, other people stare at me in disbelief. Peering out of their air-conditioned cars, or sitting in an air-conditioned restaurant, they just can’t understand how anyone could tolerate being outside during a heat wave, bundled up in heavy riding gear.
Your body has automatic "thermostats" to protect the core organs from heat stress, including sweating, vasodilation, increase in heart rate and reduction of blood pressure. If these tactics don't keep core temperature within the redline, the body gives you warnings such as heat cramps. If you don’t take care of the problem, it gets more serious, including heat exhaustion and heat stroke.
Sweating
The body has sweat glands to keep the skin damp. The evaporating sweat sucks heat from the skin, and transfers it to the air. Of course sweat is primarily water, so it’s critical to keep replenishing the supply. That's one reason why we need to drink about a pint of water every hour during hot, dry conditions. One problem for motorcyclists is that at highway speed, the sweat glands may not keep up with the evaporation. Or, if the sweating uses up too much water, your body temperature regulating system goes on the fritz, like a dry battery.
Vasodilatation
To help cool down the core, blood vessels enlarge to circulate more blood (and therefore body heat) towards the skin. If ambient air temperature is lower than body temperature, excess heat can be absorbed by the air. But if the air gets hotter than the skin, the increased blood flow simply soaks up more heat from the air and pumps it back to the core.
Heart rate and blood pressure
The heart responds to increasing heat ("hyperthermia") by increasing the heart rate to pump more blood into those enlarged blood vessels. As the air temperature rises, heart rate (pulse) can increase 50% to 70% faster than the normal resting rate. The increased flow causes blood pressure to drop, and blood flow is shunted away from muscles and brain, towards the skin. Consider the implications of those changes on a motorcyclist. The lowered blood pressure reduces muscle control and brain activity, and more blood is pumped towards the skin--where it is vulnerable to road rash
Symptoms of trouble
The human body won't take much of an increase in core temperature without complaining. The symptoms of overheating are leg cramps, tired muscles, headaches, dizziness, and even fainting. The various symptoms are trying to tell you how overcooked you're getting.
Heat Cramps
Muscle cramps caused by heat usually effect the legs and lower abdomen first, then the arms. Heat cramps are a symptom that the body's electrolytes are running low. It’s not smart to ignore muscle cramps. Find some shade and take a break. Sip water or an "exercise" drink Exert firm pressure or massage the cramped muscles to relieve the spasms. If you’re still in pain, the recommended first aid dose is 1/2 teaspoon of table salt per half glass of water every 15 minutes.
Heat Exhaustion
Heat exhaustion occurs as the body continues to shunt blood away from the brain and muscles. Symptoms of heat exhaustion include:
1. Headaches, dizziness, nausea, momentary fainting
2. Cramps
3. Tiredness, weakness
4. Profuse sweating
5. Pale, clammy skin
6. Approximately normal body temperature
If you begin to feel these symptoms during a desert ride, take immediate action before you pass out. 1. Get into some shade, preferably into an air-conditioned room.
2. Loosen clothing and wet down skin or undershirt to increase evaporative cooling.
3. Slowly sip water, or salt water solution, same dose as for heat cramps. Avoid alcohol or caffeine.
4. If you feel faint, lie down and get feet raised above head level.
5. If you can’t keep the salt water down, get emergency medical aid. You may need an intravenous salt solution.
6. Even after you begin to feel normal again, consider staying out of the heat for a day or two. Your body needs some time to recuperate. If you are on a long trip, consider a 24 hour layover in the next air-conditioned motel.
Heat Stroke
If you experience heat exhaustion and just try to "tough out" the heat without getting cooled down and rehydrated, the body thermostats will begin to fail. Core temperature continues to rise (may go as high as 106 or 107 degrees F.), sweating stops, the heart beats even faster, and you may pass out. If you are coherent enough to recognize the symptoms, immediately get medical aid while you are still mobile. And watch your riding buddies for any of the following heat stroke symptoms.
1. Victim incoherent, staring vacantly, blanking out, or unresponsive
2. Skin hot, red, dry (no perspiration)
3. Rapid pulse
4. Body temperature elevated
Yes, heat stroke is life threatening. It’s a medical emergency. Don’t be bashful about calling 911 for assistance. In the meanwhile,
1. Get the victim into some shade, out of riding gear, and cooled down by any means available. If possible, get the victim into an air-conditioned room, or use fans to help provide evaporative cooling.
2. Repeatedly sponge skin with cool water or rubbing alcohol. Apply cold packs or ice cubes if you can get them. The goal is to get body temperature below 102 degrees F.
3. Don't give the victim any stimulants, especially not any alcoholic beverages.
4. If the victim's temperature begins to rise again, repeat the cooling process.
5. As soon as possible, get the victim to emergency treatment.
Avoiding the Ugliness
Even after a heat stroke victim has been cooled down and rested, the ugliness isn’t over. It’s not uncommon to have intestinal upset for a week or so, with food coming out both ends of the pipe. I know you’d rather avoid that sort of ugliness.
People from cooler climates often react to hot weather by removing clothing. That helps cool the skin--providing air temperature is less than body temperature. Heat transfers from a hot object to a cold object. Pick up an ice cube, and it feels cold. What’s happening is that the ice is rapidly absorbing heat from your skin. Even if the air is 89F, the air will absorb heat from your skin (assuming your body is around 99F). Now, consider what happens when you curl your fingers around a hot cup of coffee. Your skin rapidly absorbs heat from the cup, because the cup is hotter than your hand. The same thing occurs when the air temperature is hotter than your body temperature.
You may think your body is hot at 99 F, but it’s "cold" compared to air at 118 F. If you expose your skin to air that’s hotter than you are, your body just soaks up more heat.
The lesson here is that if air temperature is in the 80s or 90s, it helps to open up the jacket vents, or wear a mesh jacket. But once air temperature climbs above 99 F, the best way to keep from getting cooked is to keep your insulation on, and the vents closed. Desert nomads wear long, loose wool garments, both to keep the sweating skin in the shade, and to insulate the body from the hot air.
With the temperature in triple digits, I wear my leather gloves and insulated riding. My feet are down in the air stream that’s first been heated up by the pavement, and then heated some more by the engine. Are my feet hot? Sure, but not as hot as if I were wearing thin boots or shoes that exposed my ankles.
Same for the helmet. Wouldn’t it make sense to crack my visor when it’s really hot, or at least open up the helmet vents? Nope. Any hot air allowed to reach my skin will heat up the skin, not cool it down. Inside my helmet at 118F, I’m sweltering, but the temperature is probably under 100 F. That crushable helmet liner inside the shell is there to cushion my brain against impacts, but it’s the same expanded polystyrene foam they use to make insulated picnic coolers. So, the helmet actually provides insulation against the hot air.
One additional concern about exposed skin is sun and wind burn. Even if you wear heavy duty sunscreen to protect against a nasty sunburn, the wind at motorcycling speeds can also irritate the skin. If you’re riding more than a few miles, it’s best to keep your skin covered.
Evaporative Cooling
More physics now. When water evaporates, it cools down. Blow hot air through a wet bandana, and the bandana cools down. Cooling the skin cools the blood, which cools down the whole body. Evaporative cooling works best on areas of the body where there are large blood vessels close to the skin: the groin and the neck. A motorcyclist's groin is too close to the engine and too far out of the air stream. That's why wearing something wet around your neck is so important.
The bad news is that evaporative cooling only works well in dry climates. When the humidity is already high, (you're 99/99 in Missouri in August--99 degrees and 99 percent) neither perspiration nor the water in your neckband evaporate very well. Limited evaporation; limited cooling. But of course there is shade in Missouri, so the best tactic may be to simply take more breaks in humid climates. Or, you can ride early in the morning when it’s cool, and rest in the shade in the afternoon.
For those of us riding in the deserts of Washington, Oregon, and California, the air is relatively dry, so evaporative cooling works very well. A wet bandana around your chin will cool you for a few minutes, but the hot wind blast will quickly evaporate all the water. You need to keep replenishing the water every few minutes. Better yet, wear thicker fabric that holds a lot more water.
For instance, Aerostich makes an "Evapodanna" made of the same fuzzy material used in camp towels. ("evaporative bandana", get it?) You just saturate it with water, and wrap it around your neck. Occasionally dribble some water on it and it will continue to cool all day. There are also some tubular neckties containing special polymer crystals that soak up a huge quantity of water. They are an advantage for slow speed activities such as golf, but the crystals release the water very slowly, and can’t give off enough water at motorcycling speeds to provide much evaporative cooling.
Keep Your Tummy Tank Full
The other important tactic for hot weather is to drink lots of water, to replenish your electrolytes and refill your sweat glands. We’re talking at least a pint per hour. Exercise drinks containing "electrolytes" (salts) are acceptable, unless you have high blood pressure. And flavored drinks may be very high in sugar, too. Carbonated soft drinks are better than nothing, although it would be best to get the water without large doses of salt, sugar and chemicals. Almost all grocery stores and convenience markets have chilled filtered water in plastic bottles, handy for both drinking and wetting down your bandana.
More than a few riders carry a water bladder, such as a "Platypus" carried on the back in a fabric holster, or in a jacket pocket. Some water bladders can be pressurized with small pumps, and evaporative cooling wrappers are available to help chill the bladder. Aerostich is a good source of serious hot weather hydration devices. Aerostich: (800) 222-1994 or www.aerostich.com. You can also find water bladders at sporting goods stores such as REI in Seattle.
In hot weather, avoid alcoholic drinks. Obviously, alcohol reduces judgment. What’s not so obvious is that alcohol stimulates abnormal heartbeats, depresses the pump function of the heart, and actually dehydrates the body. Alcohol does all the wrong things for a motorcyclist in the desert.
So, when it’s really hot, keep your jacket on, and soak down your T-shirt. Wear a wet neck cooler, and keep dribbling water on it. If you’re getting too hot, or start feeling any hints of muscle cramps or heat exhaustion, don’t just keep riding. Take steps to cool down while you’re still thinking clearly. Take a break in the shade, or stop at a convenience store and buy a bag of crushed ice to stuff inside your jacket. The melting ice water will soak your gear and provide evaporative cooling even after the ice is gone.
Route Planning
In general, higher elevations are cooler. If it’s really hot down on the valley floor, consider an alternate road with a higher (cooler) elevation. Sometimes you don’t have any alternative other than crossing a desert. But you can adjust your schedule. One tactic is to hibernate at a cool motel during the heat of the day, and head out after dark, when the temperature is lower.
Adjust your thinking
If you live in a temperate area where the thermometer seldom rises above 90F, you need to readjust your thinking for those forays into hotter territory. Remember, insulate your skin from the sun and hot air, use evaporative cooling around your neck, and drink lots of water. Oh yeh, learn to ignore the stares of other motorists and dehydrated bikers who think you’re crazy to wear heavy gear on a hot day.
David Hough is a long-time motorcyclist and journalist. His work has appeared in numerous motorcycle publications, but he is best known for the monthly skills series “Proficient Motorcycling” in Motorcycle Consumer News, which has been honored by special awards from the Motorcycle Safety Foundation. Selected columns were edited into a book “Proficient Motorcycling” published by Bowtie Press. He is also the author of “Driving A Sidecar Outfit”. A pocket handbook, “Street Strategies” is also on the market as is More Proficient Motorcycling.
Thursday, June 14, 2007
Monday, June 11, 2007
Carb Shimming
Original Page:
http://www.gstwins.com/zx6r/zx6r_shim.htm
http://www.gstwins.com/zx6r/zx6r_shim.htm
How to Shim Kawasaki
ZX6R Carb Needles
(specific to years 2000-2002 but should work for earlier models too)
This relatively easy job helps smooth out the power dip felt in the
ZX6R at about 5k rpm -this should work fine with zx6R's with stock or bolt-on
systems or even full systems. On other bikes I have owned this mod has had varying degrees
of success so I decided to try it with the ZX6R. My wife's 2002 ZX6R always had a
*gulp* when I whacked open the throttle and once I made this small mod the problem went
away. If you have some mechanical ability you will want to do this mod as the
difference is very noticeable in throttle response. Shims are .020" thick
and 3mm ID you can find something close enough at Radio Shack or you can purchase shims
for $2.37 ($2 + postage) HERE
| Remove the seat by unbolting the seat bracket |  |
| Remove the two bolts that hold the bracket at the rear of the gas tank. Remove the little breather hose at the rear of the gas tank. |  |
| Remove the two gas tank bolts under the top triple clamp. |  |
| Turn fuel petcuck to the OFF position. Remove fuel petcock knob with a phillips head screwdriver. Don't forget this or you'll probably snap it off when removing the tank! |  |
| Raise the gas tank and identify fuel hose by the fuel petcock (see pic below) . Now you can prop up the tank and might be able to do the job without removing the tank but why? You risk tearing the fuel hose and make the job harder. (don't ask me how I know this) |  |
| Once you get the fuel line off the petcock you're ready to remove the air box. Remove the breather hose and start taking the bolts off. |  |
| A 10mm socket and a ratchet makes the air box removal easier. Remove all the bolts from around the air box. |  |
| Remove the air box cover and the air filter. May be a good time to inspect the filter and make sure its clean and doesn't need replacement (a restrictive air filter can cause the bike to run rich and lose power).. |  |
 | |
| Remove the velocity stacks from the carbs -they are easy to remove with a good screwdriver. They are held on with two screws and note the taller ones are in the middle. |  |
| Now remove the bottom half of the air box. There a number of screws around the carbs and the hoses for the ram air need to be removed (its easy, just pull them off). |  |
| Remove vacuum valve cover by removing 2 screws. *WARNING* there is one tiny o-ring under the vacuum valve cover that will fall down into the motor. It is imperative you find it or order a couple from your dealer ahead of time (Kaw p/n 16038-022). I located all of them and had to fish them out with tape on the end of a long screwdriver. I used a tiny smear of contact cement in the cover to hold o-ring in place to reinstall. Also, after I did the job I thought about using silicone sealant instead due to ease of use (just a tiny smear on the o-ring then stick it to the cover). You must put them back and whatever you do, don't block the air port! THIS IS THE TRICKIEST PART OF THE JOB. |  |
| Remove the vacuum valve by carefully pulling on the diaphragm. |  |
| The vacuum valve will easily slide out. |  |
| Time to shim! Remove needle holder with a pair of needle nose pliers. Use a gentle rocking motion while pulling and watch for the little spring under it. Watch this Shim procedure in Windows *consider right clicking and saving to your disk for |  |
| Pry off the plastic spacer and insert the shim. The ZX6R seemed to work best with one per needle. |  |
| Now repeat the process for the remaining 3 needles and you're done! Now you simply reassemble the carbs, the air box and gas tank and enjoy. If you need shims you can buy for $2.37 ($2 + postage) HERE |  Exploded to show shim -these items |
| If you are happy with this page and it helped consider making a small paypal donation |
Sunday, June 10, 2007
Motorcycle tire changing & balancing videos
Motorcycle tire removal
Motorcycle Tire Balancing
Motorcycle Tire installation
When to change motorcycle tires:
Motorcycle Tire Balancing
Motorcycle Tire installation
When to change motorcycle tires:
Motorcycle tire changing & Balancing
Original location:
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing.html
This is a great how to about tire changing. It also has directions for a home made tire changing station setup
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing.html
This is a great how to about tire changing. It also has directions for a home made tire changing station setup
Online parts Microfiche for your bike
Via these links, you can find the part numbers, and exploded schematics of your motorcycle parts:
http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/getman.cfm
http://www.ronnies.com/micro.htm
http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/OEM-Parts-Nav.asp
http://www.mrcycles.com/
There are lots more vendors/suppliers out there but these are the few that came up on the search. I'm not endorsing these vendors, shop at your own risk.
http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/getman.cfm
http://www.ronnies.com/micro.htm
http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/OEM-Parts-Nav.asp
http://www.mrcycles.com/
There are lots more vendors/suppliers out there but these are the few that came up on the search. I'm not endorsing these vendors, shop at your own risk.
Saturday, June 9, 2007
Only a rich man can afford to buy cheap tools
Here's a review and comparison of different tool brands:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Ratings_Of_Tools_By_Brand
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Ratings_Of_Tools_By_Brand
Ratings Of Tools By Brand
From Ninja250Wiki
Contents[hide] |
[edit]
"Only a rich man can afford to buy cheap tools"
Courtesy of RiceBurner
Where do tools become "too rich for your blood"? Obviously, the same tools are not needed for different people... a professional body man can use a 60 tooth 1/4" ratchet that costs 75 bucks, because there are times when you simply need that close, small ratchet motion. However, most of us working on our own bikes just to save money wouldn't consider that. We'll stick with the Craftsman ratchet that only has 45 teeth, so it has a larger swing, but it also only costs 25 bucks.
Here's a guide on how to "value-rate" tools and decide which brand you need for your purposes.
It's set up like this:
- Brand Name
- Cost (1-5) Why? (1 is cheapest, 5 is most expensive)
- Value (1-5) Why? (1 is worst value, 5 is best value.)
- Warranty (1-5) Describes warranty, dealer availability for warranty, and turn around time. (1 bad, 5 good)
- Usablity (does it work how it's supposed to?) (1-5) Why or why not? (1 doesn't work 5 you keep finding new uses for old tools.)
- Overall rating (1-5)
[edit]
Snap-On
Cost: 4 Tools are expensive, partly because the dealers are mobile and will often drive where you are.
Value: 4 While expensive, the tools are high quality, perhaps the best I've consistently seen. If they weren't so expensive, I would rate them a 5. There is an additional factor, as well. Since Snap-On is mobile, you will often deal with the same person when buying tools. A first name basis with your tool man is a Good Thing.
Warranty: 4 All hand tools have lifetime replacement warranty, unless it is apparent the tool has been abused. Power tools have a 1 or 2 year warranty, depending. It is hard to track down the dealer, though he does come by my work place every Wednesday. Since the dealer is mobile, he cannot stock as much as say, Sears, so turn around time varies... anything in stock is immediate; anything else must be ordered.
Usability: 5 I've never used a Snap-On tool and thought "wow, this doesn't work." Ratchets have more teeth for smaller ratchet swing than any other brand I've used. Sockets are high quality, and never slip, even on slightly rounded bolts/nuts. Screwdrivers have a very comfortable handle, and IMHO you can apply more force to them than most other screwdrivers. LOTS of specialty tools... if you can imagine a tool, they have it, and it will probably work really well.
Overall: 4 Great tools, Great service, need a central store. Good stuff to buy if you never want to buy another tool like it again. Too bad they are so expensive, often 20-30% higher than Craftsman, sometimes more.
[edit]
Blue-Point
The only difference between Snap-On and Blue-Point is where the parts are made. Snap-On is 100% made in USA. Blue-Point can have parts from all over the world, *but* they are manufactured to the same level of quality as Snap-On.
Cost: 3.5 About the same as Craftsman most of the time. Not as expensive as Snap On.
Value: 4 Less cost, but less quality, compared to Snap-On.
Warranty: 4 I've never broken a Blue-Point tool, as I don't own many. Blue-point has the same warranty as Snap-on.
Overall: 4 Similar to Craftsman's "Companion" series. Slightly lesser quality (but still very good) and slightly cheaper costs. A good tool for home mechanics, and several of the guys at the shop here use Blue-Point tools (perhaps because the Snap-On one is too expensive.) If Snap-On is out of your budget, but you want high quality, get Blue-Point. You won't regret it.
[edit]
Craftsman
Craftsman makes a range of "qualities", from Ace Hardware to near Snap-On. Their Craftsman Professional hand tools are pretty well-regarded.
Cost: 3.5 Somewhat expensive unless you get a sale, but not so much as Snap-On.
Value: 5 I rate these highly because they are still very good quality tools, with a good warranty, and for less than Snap-On.
Warranty: 4 Lifetime no questions asked replacement on hand tools. Almost always in stock, zero turn around time. Power tools aren't as great, 1 year limited warranty, with option to buy 2nd year of the same for a few bucks when you get the tool. Very easy to find a Sears store.
Usability: 5 As with Snap-On, these tools never fail unless you use them wrong. The worst I've had happen was breaking the tip of a P2 phillips driver while using it correctly. Very stubborn screw, though. A quick trip to Sears, and I had a new one.
Overall: 5 It's hard to get such a good combination of price, value, and warranty. For me, Craftsman is simply the best for a home mechanic, or in many cases a professional. Many of my tools at work are Craftsman.
[edit]
Companion
Cost: 2.5 Fairly good tools at a cheap price.
Value: 4 Cheap price offsets crappy warranty. Tools are definately not ultra high quality. I have a set of 1/4 drive deepset sockets, and I have been using them at work for almost a year with virtually no problems at all. Sockets do not fit on bolts as snugly as Craftsman, Snap-On, or Blue-Point. Wrench quality is suspect - I would avoid Companion wrenches.
Warranty: 1 Non existent.
Overall: 3.5 A good starter tool set for a budding home mechanic. Not so great for professionals. Sockets seem to be the best value in this brand. Too bad there's no warranty. There is more difference in quality between Craftsman and Companion than between Snap-On and Blue-Point.
[edit]
Ace Hardware
Cost: 2 Pretty cheap tools. Good for quick purchases when you can't get to a tool you already own, but not so great for a final tool purchase.
Value: 3 Mediocre quality offsets cheap cost.
Warranty: 1 As far as I know, there is none. A deal breaker for me.
Usability: 3 They work correctly, but I wouldn't reach for a 12 point Ace socket when I need to bust loose a stubborn bolt. I notice some rounding on sockets after much use, and the drive side of it (where you hook up the ratchet) also rounds a little, but nothing close to failing to hook up with the ratchet drive.
Overall 2: No warranty, OK manufacturing, and a half-way selection of sockets at the store gets this brand a lower rating. Good thing they are cheap... that's about all they have going for them.
[edit]
Great Neck
I won't comment too much on this brand, as I have limited experience with them. The few tools I have bought work reasonably well, and were cheap, but they were lacking in quality. Casting marks on brad-removers, amongst other things, stand out in my mind.
[edit]
Mac
Again, not much Mac experience. Rumor says good tools. Perhaps someone can confirm?
[edit]
Matco
Never even seen one. My buddy says they are great, somewhere between Snap-On and Craftsman, but you pay for it. Lifetime warranty for hand tools, although their website warranty info is "legally obtuse" (ask about the warranty before you buy anything.)
[edit]
KD
Cost: 4 KD makes alot of specialty tools, and you pay for it.
Value: 4 Remember those ratcheting flex head gear wrenches? These guys started that... Gear Wrench is owned by KD. Sometimes, there's nothing else that will work.
Warranty: Haven't had to warranty a KD tool yet. Unsure exactly what the warranty is. My KD tools are ordered through Snap-On, though we also have a direct account, so getting the warranty is probably a little harder than getting Snap-On warranties...
Overall: 3 Specialty tool company makes special tools. Sometimes, there's nothing like them, but WHEW. I spent 179 bucks for a wrench set... 8-19MM complete. 12 wrenches. That's close to 15 bucks each!
[edit]
Harbor Freight
Cost: 1 Harbor Freight sells cheap cheap cheap tools. Between one quarter to half the Craftsman price.
Value: 2 While incredibly inexpensive, HF tools are also very cheap, particularly the hand tools. They're made in China, and have highly variable quality control. Some of the tools are fine, but some of them fall apart before you use them the first time. Interestingly, the more complex and expensive the tool, the higher quality they seem to be (I have an air impact wrench which cost $18 and has held up fairly well under light use).
Warranty: There's a warranty? Actually, within their warranty time (which is 30 days? 90? Something like that), the HF store I've dealt with has been very good about exchanges with no questions. It's a very short warranty period, though.
Overall: HF has an amazing selection of tools (check them out: http://www.harborfreight.com/), including everything from screwdrivers to welders to CNC mills. They're all surprisingly inexpensive, and some of them are actually decent. Presumably, as the Chinese ramp up their quality (which is visibly happening even now), HF tools will become a better deal. Don't buy hand tools there, but if you need to weld something and only have $100 to spend on a welder, HF is the place to go. Also good for "I need it now, I need it to work once" tools.
(HF section by IanJ)
[edit]
Other Options
NAPA Autoparts has a "Professional Series" ratchet set for $70 or so. They seem to be durable and of "Great Neck" (middle of the road) quality. The set includes: deepwells and short sockets both metric and standard from sizes 4mm-19mm and 5/32"-7/8", two ratchets, two extensions, a converter for 3/8" to 1/4" drive, a nutdriver, two spark plug sockets and a nice plastic carry-all attache' to keep it all in place. There is not a single 12 point socket in the whole set. Overall, I found it to be a very good value for someone who does not regularly do heavy duty work. I do not know if they would hold up to hard labor, but I think so.
I have a Greatneck pullbar and a two Greatneck torque wrenches that also fill the bill. No problems so far. All my other tools are Craftsman. For the householder or the guy who likes to do his own oil changes and valve adjustments, I highly recommend both Napa and Greatneck. But for the pro's, probably not.
Tire unusual markings and wear patterns
This page shows the effects of improper suspension settings on tires, and how to diagnose them visually.
Thanks Bryce!
Feel The Track! Tire unusual markings and wear patterns
Thanks Bryce!
Feel The Track! Tire unusual markings and wear patterns
|
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
Motorcycle break in tips. There are lots of different opinions on how to break your engine in.
Here's a brief explanation
It has been pointed out that every motorcycle model Kawasaki makes comes with the same, 4000 RPM initial break-in limit sticker on the tach. This really isn't fair, because of gearing. Some bikes do 50 mph or more in top gear at 4000 rpm, while the Ninja 250 only does 35 mph, so the bike that does 50 mph in top gear will consume 500 miles sooner. It's really backwards, because EX250 works harder, and would break itself in sooner than, say, a 2-liter, 5k RPM-redline Kawasaki Vulcan. But a mindful break-in is still important.
This is a much-debated topic; some say baby it, some say ride it like you stole it. I'm just going to put up my take on the matter, backed up with a few empirical items.
The fact is that an engine is not fully broken for several thousands of miles. During that period, you have to respect it more than you would a fully broken in engine. That said, the Ninja 250 is probably 95% broken in by 500 miles. And it's probably 90% broken in by 50 miles. Still -- and this is really beside the point of this article -- the engine is not fully broken in until 5000 miles or so, when everything in the engine is completely seated, at which point the engine begins to ever-so-slowly deteriorate (just like you grow until you're 27 years old, then you start to die).
Now, what does "respecting the engine" mean? Generally, it's all about friction and lubrication. Until the engine is run in, there is more friction and less lubrication on critical parts (valves, cams, rings, bearings, etc). These parts must be in good shape for the engine to run efficiently and for long periods of time. Exceed the proper RPMs, and the unworn components will get too hot too fast; you will get hardened rings, scored cylinders, and valves that do not seat correctly. This may not make a huge difference at first, but the increased wear will encourage more advanced wear. Loss of compression, noisy bearings, leaking seals... the list is extensive. But it adds up to less power and shorter engine life span in the long run.
So again: What is the proper respect? What are the proper RPMs? This is a matter of much disagreement. But here is what is usually agreed upon: Do not mess with an engine until it is fully heated up, fully lubricated and ready to be pushed. No one will disagree that multiple, progressive heat cycles are a Good ThingTM, and that frequent oil changes early can never hurt.
Is there a formula for all this? Not exactly, but here's a good method I would use: make the engine work harder the more you break it in, always keeping the temperature and friction inside in mind.
Here's an example from Duke, who competed in the 2005 Iron Butt Rally on an EX250 he built for the purpose of competing:
Here's the details of the break-in of my rally bike. This motor was basically brand-new - then re-built from scratch with minor oil flow and valve seat modifications. It completed 9,500 miles during the Iron Butt Rally in Aug./Sept. 2005. The motor was started for the first time in March 2005. As of January 2006, it has 22,000 miles.
NOTE - complete cooldown between each run (at least 4 hours). Used Castrol GTX 10W-40.
* Initial Startup Idle 10 minutes Coolant to full temperature.
* Ride #1 5 miles 5-8k Spinning motor w/ no load
* Ride #2 8 miles 5-10k Short medium loading
* Ride #3 12 miles 5k-12k-5k Short loading (Wide Open Throttle) / Engine braking
* Ride #4 15 miles 5k-14k-5k Short loading (WOT) / Engine braking
* Ride #5 20 miles 5k-14k-5k Short loading (WOT) / Engine braking
Oil/filter change
* Ride #6 22 miles 8k-14.5k-8k Short loading (WOT) / Engine braking
* Ride #7 38 miles 8k-14k-8k Short loading (WOT) / Engine braking
* Ride #8 15 miles 5k-12k Commute to work on Interstate - Vary RPMs
* Ride #9 15 miles 5k-12k Commute to work on Interstate - Vary RPMs
* Ride #10 15 miles 5k-12k Commute to work on Interstate - Vary RPM
* More commuting up to just over 500 miles
Oil/Filter change
* 768 miles Nashville, TN to Omaha, NE - Interstate - Ride as normal
* 768 miles Omaha, NE to Nashville, TN - Interstate - Ride as normal
It then went on the 48-hour MD-20/20 Rally - Covering just over 2,000 miles during the 48 hours. In July it went 5,100 miles in 4 days, 22 hours. It had 10,000 miles on it at the beginning of the IBR in late August. Changed to Rotella 5W-40 Synthetic at 5k, just before the 5-day ride. 10K at the start of the IBR. I felt the motor began to feel 'broken-in' between 7-9k miles.
This is the strongest Ninja250 I've personally ridden. The amount of oil it burned during the IBR varied from none to about 1/4 qt. per 1,000 miles.
(source: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Do_I_really_have_to_follow_this_break-in_period%3F)
This is an example of HARD Break-in method.
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
Disclaimer: There's a lot of controversy an objection on this kind of break in method.The directions given on this site WILL contradict your manufacturers' instructions. If you decide to do it, do it at your own risk, and if you screw your engine up don't come about suing me.
Here's another one:
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
Here's a brief explanation
It has been pointed out that every motorcycle model Kawasaki makes comes with the same, 4000 RPM initial break-in limit sticker on the tach. This really isn't fair, because of gearing. Some bikes do 50 mph or more in top gear at 4000 rpm, while the Ninja 250 only does 35 mph, so the bike that does 50 mph in top gear will consume 500 miles sooner. It's really backwards, because EX250 works harder, and would break itself in sooner than, say, a 2-liter, 5k RPM-redline Kawasaki Vulcan. But a mindful break-in is still important.
This is a much-debated topic; some say baby it, some say ride it like you stole it. I'm just going to put up my take on the matter, backed up with a few empirical items.
The fact is that an engine is not fully broken for several thousands of miles. During that period, you have to respect it more than you would a fully broken in engine. That said, the Ninja 250 is probably 95% broken in by 500 miles. And it's probably 90% broken in by 50 miles. Still -- and this is really beside the point of this article -- the engine is not fully broken in until 5000 miles or so, when everything in the engine is completely seated, at which point the engine begins to ever-so-slowly deteriorate (just like you grow until you're 27 years old, then you start to die).
Now, what does "respecting the engine" mean? Generally, it's all about friction and lubrication. Until the engine is run in, there is more friction and less lubrication on critical parts (valves, cams, rings, bearings, etc). These parts must be in good shape for the engine to run efficiently and for long periods of time. Exceed the proper RPMs, and the unworn components will get too hot too fast; you will get hardened rings, scored cylinders, and valves that do not seat correctly. This may not make a huge difference at first, but the increased wear will encourage more advanced wear. Loss of compression, noisy bearings, leaking seals... the list is extensive. But it adds up to less power and shorter engine life span in the long run.
So again: What is the proper respect? What are the proper RPMs? This is a matter of much disagreement. But here is what is usually agreed upon: Do not mess with an engine until it is fully heated up, fully lubricated and ready to be pushed. No one will disagree that multiple, progressive heat cycles are a Good ThingTM, and that frequent oil changes early can never hurt.
Is there a formula for all this? Not exactly, but here's a good method I would use: make the engine work harder the more you break it in, always keeping the temperature and friction inside in mind.
Here's an example from Duke, who competed in the 2005 Iron Butt Rally on an EX250 he built for the purpose of competing:
Here's the details of the break-in of my rally bike. This motor was basically brand-new - then re-built from scratch with minor oil flow and valve seat modifications. It completed 9,500 miles during the Iron Butt Rally in Aug./Sept. 2005. The motor was started for the first time in March 2005. As of January 2006, it has 22,000 miles.
NOTE - complete cooldown between each run (at least 4 hours). Used Castrol GTX 10W-40.
* Initial Startup Idle 10 minutes Coolant to full temperature.
* Ride #1 5 miles 5-8k Spinning motor w/ no load
* Ride #2 8 miles 5-10k Short medium loading
* Ride #3 12 miles 5k-12k-5k Short loading (Wide Open Throttle) / Engine braking
* Ride #4 15 miles 5k-14k-5k Short loading (WOT) / Engine braking
* Ride #5 20 miles 5k-14k-5k Short loading (WOT) / Engine braking
Oil/filter change
* Ride #6 22 miles 8k-14.5k-8k Short loading (WOT) / Engine braking
* Ride #7 38 miles 8k-14k-8k Short loading (WOT) / Engine braking
* Ride #8 15 miles 5k-12k Commute to work on Interstate - Vary RPMs
* Ride #9 15 miles 5k-12k Commute to work on Interstate - Vary RPMs
* Ride #10 15 miles 5k-12k Commute to work on Interstate - Vary RPM
* More commuting up to just over 500 miles
Oil/Filter change
* 768 miles Nashville, TN to Omaha, NE - Interstate - Ride as normal
* 768 miles Omaha, NE to Nashville, TN - Interstate - Ride as normal
It then went on the 48-hour MD-20/20 Rally - Covering just over 2,000 miles during the 48 hours. In July it went 5,100 miles in 4 days, 22 hours. It had 10,000 miles on it at the beginning of the IBR in late August. Changed to Rotella 5W-40 Synthetic at 5k, just before the 5-day ride. 10K at the start of the IBR. I felt the motor began to feel 'broken-in' between 7-9k miles.
This is the strongest Ninja250 I've personally ridden. The amount of oil it burned during the IBR varied from none to about 1/4 qt. per 1,000 miles.
(source: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Do_I_really_have_to_follow_this_break-in_period%3F)
This is an example of HARD Break-in method.
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
Disclaimer: There's a lot of controversy an objection on this kind of break in method.The directions given on this site WILL contradict your manufacturers' instructions. If you decide to do it, do it at your own risk, and if you screw your engine up don't come about suing me.
Here's another one:
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
Motorcycle Oil Filter Cross Reference
One of the most detailed sites about motorcycle oils and oil filters.
It explains the differences between oil weights, how they might affect your motorcycle, etc.
They also compare different brands.
Motorcycle Oil Filter Cross Reference
It explains the differences between oil weights, how they might affect your motorcycle, etc.
They also compare different brands.
Motorcycle Oil Filter Cross Reference
Motorcycle FAQ - Ninja250Wiki
One of the best resources you can find about motorcycle maintenance. Even though it's tailored towards Kawasaki Ninja 250, I'm sure you;ll find lots of general information.
Main Page - Ninja250Wiki
Main Page - Ninja250Wiki
A great source
This is a great source for motorcyclists and DIY kind of people.
You can find great write-ups (with pictures) on motorcycle maintenance, up keep or modifications.
They may not directly refer to your motorcycle, but most of the information contained are pretty common on most motorcycles (like oil change, coolant change, carb synchronization, etc.)
Enjoy, and when you're referring to this page, please give credit to the original author.
Once you're in the site, click on the links on former bikes list.
Ottawa Motorcyclist
You can find great write-ups (with pictures) on motorcycle maintenance, up keep or modifications.
They may not directly refer to your motorcycle, but most of the information contained are pretty common on most motorcycles (like oil change, coolant change, carb synchronization, etc.)
Enjoy, and when you're referring to this page, please give credit to the original author.
Once you're in the site, click on the links on former bikes list.
Ottawa Motorcyclist
Zip tie throttle mod pics... - 2003-2006 ZX-6R @ KawiForums.com
This is a cheap alternative to quarter turn throttle mod.If you don;t want to shell out $ for a new throttle, you might want to try this.
Zip tie throttle mod pics... - 2003-2006 ZX-6R @ KawiForums.com
Zip tie throttle mod pics... - 2003-2006 ZX-6R @ KawiForums.com
Motorcycle Suit Review-Non-Leather
Here are reviews and descriptions of some motorcycle suits:
Olympia Phantom (Thanks Abe!)
Olympia Phantom - webBikeWorld
High Velocity:
http://www.highvelocitygear.com/productpages/601061.html
Aerostitch (Thanks Sharad!)
http://www.aerostich.com/catalog/US/Roadcrafter-p-1-c-249.html
Olympia Phantom (Thanks Abe!)
Olympia Phantom - webBikeWorld
High Velocity:
http://www.highvelocitygear.com/productpages/601061.html
Aerostitch (Thanks Sharad!)
http://www.aerostich.com/catalog/US/Roadcrafter-p-1-c-249.html
how to install factory shitft kit on ZX636
This is a very detailed step by step instruction with pictures as a visual aid:
BARF - Bay Area Riders Forum - how to install factory shitft kit on ZX636
BARF - Bay Area Riders Forum - how to install factory shitft kit on ZX636
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