Saturday, June 9, 2007
Left Side Engine Generator Cover Install !HOW-TO! - How-Tos and FAQs @ KawiForums.com
http://kawiforums.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15430
Well This Subject Seems to come up Often, And with out Having a Manual, I was Easly able to Change My Left Side Engine Cover, In which I replaced it with a WoodCraft unit. The Reason for the Install was Due to a Crash I had in which the Factory Cover Cracked and Leaked oil, I had tried to have it Fixed Via Welding, But it would not hold!
First, Take the Side faring off, And Loosen all the Bolts for the Genarator Cover....
Now Remove the cover (keep in mind that the Genrator is Magnetic and is hard to pull apart) Also you want to remove the 4 Hex (size T30) and the 2 Bolts holding the Wire down...
Once the Old cover is Off, Now Install the new cover, Make sure to Use Loctite on the Genarator Bolts, and also To use a new gasket and Add some Sealent around the wires....
This is what the Finished Product should look like....
Hope this Helps out, I Think anyone should be able to complete this with no Worries!
All Forums » Two Wheeled Discussion » How-Tos and FAQs
Left Side Engine Generator Cover Install !HOW-TO!
Well This Subject Seems to come up Often, And with out Having a Manual, I was Easly able to Change My Left Side Engine Cover, In which I replaced it with a WoodCraft unit. The Reason for the Install was Due to a Crash I had in which the Factory Cover Cracked and Leaked oil, I had tried to have it Fixed Via Welding, But it would not hold!
First, Take the Side faring off, And Loosen all the Bolts for the Genarator Cover....
Now Remove the cover (keep in mind that the Genrator is Magnetic and is hard to pull apart) Also you want to remove the 4 Hex (size T30) and the 2 Bolts holding the Wire down...
Once the Old cover is Off, Now Install the new cover, Make sure to Use Loctite on the Genarator Bolts, and also To use a new gasket and Add some Sealent around the wires....
This is what the Finished Product should look like....
Hope this Helps out, I Think anyone should be able to complete this with no Worries!
Gatineau
Qu�bec
2001 ZX-6R
Member# 4,600
Joined: Apr 04
Posts: 371
Qu�bec
2001 ZX-6R
Member# 4,600
Joined: Apr 04
Posts: 371
Oceanside
California
1999 ZX-6R
Member# 18,011
Joined: Dec 05
Posts: 28
California
1999 ZX-6R
Member# 18,011
Joined: Dec 05
Posts: 28
All Forums » Two Wheeled Discussion » How-Tos and FAQs Left Side Engine Generator Cover Install !HOW-TO!Clutch Assembly Tips - How-Tos and FAQs @ KawiForums.com
http://kawiforums.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=49622
Originally posted by: wzfst1ce
This is probably not new to most of you, but might help the newer group of riders who work on their own bikes. This is aimed more toward the beginner track-day/racer wondering why h/er clutch doesn't last as long as h/er competition?
This is pretty much universal as far as multi-clutch pack assembly goes. This post is a generic clutch/friction assembly procedure, and does no entail all aspects of troubleshooting clutch drag, failures, lubrication assembly, torque specs, hard part inspections, etc.
Basically, this article points out "two special steps" for proper clutch assembly, and one pre-inspect before assembly.
Steel Plates:
When the manufacturer makes a steel plate from a raw sheet of metal, they stamp out thousands of these parts. You will notice a round edge, and a flat cut edge viewing the steel plate. One side you can easily cut yourself with. This is the part (cut edge) you want to look for. Some steel plates will have the special riveted (chatter) plate placed somewhere in the middle, or a "hop" plate assembly placed somewhere in the clutch pack. Remember to note the cut edge of this plate assembly as well.
The steels have what's known as "Memory". Because of the stamping, the curve of the metal will be in one direction. To illustrate this, place your palms against each other and touch your fingers as if you were praying to your chosen Deity. Now press your fingers against each other. Notice how each finger fights the other. Now place the palm of your hand over the back of your hand. Press you fingers over your other fingers. Notice how they move in the same direction and not fight each other? This is the same principal for the steel frictions. PLACE ALL STEELS IN ONE DIRECTION. This is the "first" of two keys to watch out for when working with the clutch assembly.
If you place the steel's cut-edge all in the same direction, they will not fight each other. In other words, one cut edge will not be facing the other against a friction, and the steel plate on the other side (of the friction) will not have to cause extra drag on the fiber plates as the pack is released. This is one of the reasons it is hard to find neutral. You have an ever so slight clutch drag of the whole clutch assembly. The touching load is (trying to) move the bike forward when you have the clutch lever pulled in all the way. It is somewhat of an exaggeration, but please understand the point...this is dragging the clutch pack in a subtle way.
Indiscriminately installing the clutches 'in any ol' direction', will give poor performance to the whole clutch pack assembly.
This is not the main reason, but a contributing reason why clutches do not last long if installed incorrectly. There is a percentage loss to compress the clutch assembly when a steel or friction is facing in the opposite direction... and not lined up in it's "Memory" facing order of assembly. The loss is slight, but insufficient clamping, or holding is still compromised. The steel in the wrong direction is forming a gap against the friction side of the other steel in the correct direction. To illustrate this...touch your finger tips again, and look at the gap between your palms. This is somewhat of a poor illustration on my part, but it is theory none the less... to show you how a steel plate (gap) reacts when placed opposite each other, as opposed to both in the same direction.
Friction Plates:
The single style spiral friction plate (when used) will be obvious as to their direction of assembly. This is the centrifugal pad cut direction, to fling off the oil between steel and frictions. Follow the friction "spiral pad cuts" for correct direction. Other frictions will have to be inspected for their stampings if the pad material is in the "square type design cuts". The aluminum plates (direction) might be harder to recognize. There are a few visuals to look for. Note the directional spiral plate and match the (metal) stamping this way. Match all other frictions with the spiral cut plate. Some aluminum plates will have a printed ink stamping on one side of it. Use this (sometimes) as your guide. Some aluminum frictions will have a cut edge to them (obvious direction....correct?). As long as the uniformity is consistent and in one direction, you have a better chance that the frictions will act in a consistent manor, than just throwing the friction in the (clutch outer) housing in any direction. Just look for consistency with each friction, and place them all in the same direction with the steels.
Steel/Friction Plate Pre-Inspection Assembly:
If you feel that all the steels and frictions are lined up together and you still find there is drag or it's hard to find neutral, then most likely there is one or two warped steels or frictions causing the problem. Of course you can go by the book, place each steel on a flat surface and check warpage with a feeler gage. This is one way of making sure you find a faulty steel plate. For this inspection, line up all the steels in it's memory direction (cuts all facing in one direction) and hold them all (on top of each other) in your hand in a stacked (static) formation. You simply turn the steels (all at once) and inspect for a gap between each other. If you find one, remove it. Then rotate the stack again to look for all the steels to lay flat on each other without any gaps between them. You will shuffle the stack repeatedly and make sure that a steel that was on the bottom, is now somewhere in the middle, as well as the top steel placed at a different levels.... and again, rotate the whole pack, looking for gaps. Once you have done this (card shuffle) to just about every steel/friction plate being placed at all location levels, you can then determine if they will be reusable. Discard those that cause a gap. Finally, check for the steel and friction (thickness) "serviceable limit" measurements, and are within specs.
Clutch Assembly Placement:
It is critical that the frictions & steels directions are facing the Pressure Plate. Let's say you have another Metric bike that has the pressure plate being the last installed part into the clutch outer cage. Then if that is the case, all (cut) friction and steel plates... "FACE THE PRESSURE PLATE." This is the "second" key point to proper clutch assembly.
If the pressure plate is the first part (say for example a Honda CBX) to be installed inside the clutch outer, then all cut edges face the pressure plate. So no matter what design you have, always face the... "steel/friction cut edges toward the pressure plate." As stated above, spiral style pads are placed in clutch assembly rotation. In other words, if the clutch spins counter-clockwise, then the spiral pads facing you is in the forward slash (/) position. Note how the spiral friction would rotate to fling the oil outside of it's groove. If the clutch pack rotates clockwise, then reverse the spiral pointing is in the back-slash (\) position.
Conclusion:
Anyone who installed their clutch pack recently, and indiscriminately installed the steels without this basic installation process, my want to reevaluate the assembly. You may find you still have a hard time finding neutral after you install all new parts.
The way to install the steels (and frictions) described above, will help the longevity to the clutch pack, plus give you some of the smoothest shifts, as if the bike was as new as the day you bought it. Finding neutral will also be one of the chief benefits to this.
Remember to inspect the steels/frictions for warpage. No matter how well you followed directions and execution, one warped steel/friction will not "cut' it.
Originally posted by: wzfst1ce
This is probably not new to most of you, but might help the newer group of riders who work on their own bikes. This is aimed more toward the beginner track-day/racer wondering why h/er clutch doesn't last as long as h/er competition?
This is pretty much universal as far as multi-clutch pack assembly goes. This post is a generic clutch/friction assembly procedure, and does no entail all aspects of troubleshooting clutch drag, failures, lubrication assembly, torque specs, hard part inspections, etc.
Basically, this article points out "two special steps" for proper clutch assembly, and one pre-inspect before assembly.
Steel Plates:
When the manufacturer makes a steel plate from a raw sheet of metal, they stamp out thousands of these parts. You will notice a round edge, and a flat cut edge viewing the steel plate. One side you can easily cut yourself with. This is the part (cut edge) you want to look for. Some steel plates will have the special riveted (chatter) plate placed somewhere in the middle, or a "hop" plate assembly placed somewhere in the clutch pack. Remember to note the cut edge of this plate assembly as well.
The steels have what's known as "Memory". Because of the stamping, the curve of the metal will be in one direction. To illustrate this, place your palms against each other and touch your fingers as if you were praying to your chosen Deity. Now press your fingers against each other. Notice how each finger fights the other. Now place the palm of your hand over the back of your hand. Press you fingers over your other fingers. Notice how they move in the same direction and not fight each other? This is the same principal for the steel frictions. PLACE ALL STEELS IN ONE DIRECTION. This is the "first" of two keys to watch out for when working with the clutch assembly.
If you place the steel's cut-edge all in the same direction, they will not fight each other. In other words, one cut edge will not be facing the other against a friction, and the steel plate on the other side (of the friction) will not have to cause extra drag on the fiber plates as the pack is released. This is one of the reasons it is hard to find neutral. You have an ever so slight clutch drag of the whole clutch assembly. The touching load is (trying to) move the bike forward when you have the clutch lever pulled in all the way. It is somewhat of an exaggeration, but please understand the point...this is dragging the clutch pack in a subtle way.
Indiscriminately installing the clutches 'in any ol' direction', will give poor performance to the whole clutch pack assembly.
This is not the main reason, but a contributing reason why clutches do not last long if installed incorrectly. There is a percentage loss to compress the clutch assembly when a steel or friction is facing in the opposite direction... and not lined up in it's "Memory" facing order of assembly. The loss is slight, but insufficient clamping, or holding is still compromised. The steel in the wrong direction is forming a gap against the friction side of the other steel in the correct direction. To illustrate this...touch your finger tips again, and look at the gap between your palms. This is somewhat of a poor illustration on my part, but it is theory none the less... to show you how a steel plate (gap) reacts when placed opposite each other, as opposed to both in the same direction.
Friction Plates:
The single style spiral friction plate (when used) will be obvious as to their direction of assembly. This is the centrifugal pad cut direction, to fling off the oil between steel and frictions. Follow the friction "spiral pad cuts" for correct direction. Other frictions will have to be inspected for their stampings if the pad material is in the "square type design cuts". The aluminum plates (direction) might be harder to recognize. There are a few visuals to look for. Note the directional spiral plate and match the (metal) stamping this way. Match all other frictions with the spiral cut plate. Some aluminum plates will have a printed ink stamping on one side of it. Use this (sometimes) as your guide. Some aluminum frictions will have a cut edge to them (obvious direction....correct?). As long as the uniformity is consistent and in one direction, you have a better chance that the frictions will act in a consistent manor, than just throwing the friction in the (clutch outer) housing in any direction. Just look for consistency with each friction, and place them all in the same direction with the steels.
Steel/Friction Plate Pre-Inspection Assembly:
If you feel that all the steels and frictions are lined up together and you still find there is drag or it's hard to find neutral, then most likely there is one or two warped steels or frictions causing the problem. Of course you can go by the book, place each steel on a flat surface and check warpage with a feeler gage. This is one way of making sure you find a faulty steel plate. For this inspection, line up all the steels in it's memory direction (cuts all facing in one direction) and hold them all (on top of each other) in your hand in a stacked (static) formation. You simply turn the steels (all at once) and inspect for a gap between each other. If you find one, remove it. Then rotate the stack again to look for all the steels to lay flat on each other without any gaps between them. You will shuffle the stack repeatedly and make sure that a steel that was on the bottom, is now somewhere in the middle, as well as the top steel placed at a different levels.... and again, rotate the whole pack, looking for gaps. Once you have done this (card shuffle) to just about every steel/friction plate being placed at all location levels, you can then determine if they will be reusable. Discard those that cause a gap. Finally, check for the steel and friction (thickness) "serviceable limit" measurements, and are within specs.
Clutch Assembly Placement:
It is critical that the frictions & steels directions are facing the Pressure Plate. Let's say you have another Metric bike that has the pressure plate being the last installed part into the clutch outer cage. Then if that is the case, all (cut) friction and steel plates... "FACE THE PRESSURE PLATE." This is the "second" key point to proper clutch assembly.
If the pressure plate is the first part (say for example a Honda CBX) to be installed inside the clutch outer, then all cut edges face the pressure plate. So no matter what design you have, always face the... "steel/friction cut edges toward the pressure plate." As stated above, spiral style pads are placed in clutch assembly rotation. In other words, if the clutch spins counter-clockwise, then the spiral pads facing you is in the forward slash (/) position. Note how the spiral friction would rotate to fling the oil outside of it's groove. If the clutch pack rotates clockwise, then reverse the spiral pointing is in the back-slash (\) position.
Conclusion:
Anyone who installed their clutch pack recently, and indiscriminately installed the steels without this basic installation process, my want to reevaluate the assembly. You may find you still have a hard time finding neutral after you install all new parts.
The way to install the steels (and frictions) described above, will help the longevity to the clutch pack, plus give you some of the smoothest shifts, as if the bike was as new as the day you bought it. Finding neutral will also be one of the chief benefits to this.
Remember to inspect the steels/frictions for warpage. No matter how well you followed directions and execution, one warped steel/friction will not "cut' it.
A Few Motorcycle Maintenance Tricks - How-Tos and FAQs @ KawiForums.com
http://kawiforums.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=49827
Originally posted by: wzfst1ce
Tricks Universal:
1. Hammer Phillips screw heads back in shape.
2. Find fork axle and handle bar caps with divots and arrows.
3. Setting fork and handle bar caps without divots and arrows for vibration free feel.
4. Assemble front end cap tightening sequence.
5.Remove head with cotton twine to save cooling fins from damage.
6. Remove carb limiter caps.
7. Never burn out another main fuse to find a short.
(1).Take a flat round punch that is equal to the diameter of the Phillips screw head, and pound the cross hatch back into shape. Place the correct numbered Phillips bit in the cross hatch and hammer to renew the cross. This will give the 'bite' back around the Phillips bit so it can be removed without drilling. It will both shock the threads, and save the screw for reuse.
(2). The half caps on Honda front fork and handle bars are stepped. Place the flat sides down, and look for the "gap" on the other end of the holding cap. The side (with more material) faces forward. This step design is how the bars and axles are clamped. You will find a punch mark on top of the cap or an arrow on the side of the half cap for easy recognition, and proper direction. Place these (divots/arrows) "forward on assembly." Torque the forward (divot/arrow) side first. Tighten the rear last.
(3). If you have a bike other than a Honda, some manufacturers use "even sided" half caps. Use a multi bladed feeler gauge, and clamp down these caps with precision evenness. Vibration at the axle and handle bars will be highly eliminated.
(4). A.Tighten front axle.
B.Tighten right side pinch bolt caps.
C. Push down on front suspension 2/3 times.
D. Tighten left pinch bolt caps on static return.
(5). If you have a stubborn head that won't come off, you can stuff cotton twine inside the cylinder chamber through the spark plug hole. Lower the piston, and keep stuffing twine inside. You will have to find TDC compression first, or you will bend an open valve(s) on a TDC stroke that is not on the compression stroke. Simply turn the crank, and the piston will compress the rope and crack the seal on the gasket. Remove the cotton rope and pack the other far cylinder on TDC compression. Break the gasket and theoretically, the head should come off without banging off a bunch of cooling fins. If the cylinder is not bolted down, consider this trick rendered useless. NOTE: If you find heavy resistance, then this may cause the rod to bend. Work accordingly.
(6). Use a soldering gun tip to melt the glue on the pilot screw limiter caps. They will drop off or can be carefully pulled off.
(7). Take two wires and two alligator clips, then connect them to a two pronged turn signal relay. This is now your fuse that will never burn out. Connect the alligator clips to each side of the fuse clip holders. Find the short until the relay stops clicking.
Bearing Packer:
Take a baggie, fill a corner with bearing grease. Drop bearing in corner with grease. Remove the air out of the bag by squeezing the bearing into the grease. Then spin the bag by twisting grease back down onto the bearing. Do not unwind the twist.
Begin squeezing the grease into the bearing until you no longer hear any air popping out of the bearing. Untwist the bag and pull out bearing.
Squeeze air out of the bag, and begin pushing the excess grease to the corner of the bag. Twist the bag again closed. Push grease as you pack the corner into a pastry decorating bag filler. Cut a small corner of the baggie. Squeeze grease to pack/lube selected areas.
Very close type measurements. Make two measuring tools out of welding rods.
1. Rear Wheel Alignment Tool.
A. Bend one end to a short "L" configuration. Slide on the other end, a small rubber hose (cut from a carb drain bowl) and notch or paint the center of the rubber piece.
B. Place the "L" in the center of the swing arm bolt. Drill a shallow hole in both ends of the swing arm bolt, if you can do it accurately.
C. Adjust chain slack. Then set "L" in shallow hole, then slide rubber (center mark) to the rear wheel axle. Do not move or bump the rubber tube. Place the rod on the other side of the swing and axle bolt centers, and turn adjuster screw in or out to match distance of the rubber's center.
D. Ignore (the offset) production cast and stamped markings on the swing arm and adjuster tangs. Tighten axle and recheck alignment. Theoretically, the rear axle is square to the swing arm pivot.
2. Fork Fluid Leveling Tool.
A. Bend one end of the welding rod into a short "U" shape. This will act as a static "hook" that lets the welding rod to drop and stop inside the fork tube.
B. Paint section of welding rod with white paint. When dry, mark incremental levels with a darker color. Other option is to "V" file notches in a section of the rod.
C. Pour factory recommended amount of fork fluid in one fork. Anti-dive type fork(s) my vary with amounts, and may not work well using this tool. Test to find out.
D. Measure fluid without spring installed. Extend or compress fork tubes. Length of welding rod will vary...your choice. Now simply match the fork fluid level of the first fork for equal fluid level against the second fork.
Small Hardware:
Frustrations abound when working with miniature ignition, instrument, or handle bar switch screws. They keep falling off the screwdriver’s tip right at the worst moment. Try this very old trick.
Cure for this is to take a magnet, and stroke down the shaft of the screwdriver. Do not scrub the shaft with the magnet, but start from the handle and end at the tip. Just glide it right off, and the electrons will (- + - + - + - + -) line right up.
What this does is lightly “Magnetize” the handle shaft. Place the screw on the blade tip and it should stay in place. Now you have at least a fighting chance to start the screw threads a few turns, rather than it falling off the blade, and then spend time searching for it somewhere hidden on the bike, or floor.
Demagnetize the screwdriver blade by tapping the blade with a few sharp blows to scatter the electrons back in the metal.
Finding TDC:
You really don't need to know how a 4-stroke engine works to work on your bike. About the only thing you want to remember is how to find TDC to set the cam timing or adjust valves.
Take a pair of chop sticks home the next time you go out to eat. A chop stick does less damage than a screwdriver or metal pointer/scribe.
Remove the spark plug(s) and be ready to place the stick down the plug hole.
Simply watch the intake valve go down. When it starts to come back up, carefully set the chop stick vertical (into the hole and let it move up through your fingers. Make sure it does not kink against the threads or be cocked where it will be crushed in the cylinder. The cranking can move faster than you can hold the stick straight.
Once the piston stops moving the chop stick, basically, you are at TDC. If it begins to fall back down, you went to far.
Engine Knocking Trick: Say you can hear a knocking noise coming from the engine? You want to eliminate as many variables before you tear the engine down.
Remove the spark plug(s) and find TDC as stated above. Remember when you went past TDC and felt the stick go down? This is where you want to be. Move the piston back down (after TDC) and then stop.
Some engine knocks can be caused by a burnt piston (smell that hole/read the s/plug), to a bad small end bearing, to a big end bearing about to weld itself onto the crank. The noise you want to chase, is one of these stated above.
Take the chop stick and press down on the piston. You want to make this subtle, because the only thing that is holding the piston up, are the rings. See, when you turned the crank, you pulled the con rod to move the piston down, the rings prevent the piston from falling onto the rod/crank. So when you push the chop stick on top of the piston, and it moves down (without moving the crank) you found your knock.
As long as you don't reach BDC (bottom)... you can recheck piston movement a few more times. No movement is a good sign.
Liquid Preservation:
Ever bump over a can of oil, polish, two-stroke mix, and make the Exxon Valdez almost look like an eye drop?
One trick, is to take a pointed metal scribe, and make a simple hole-- in the can or tube-- as big as the shaft of the scribe. Make the vent hole even smaller if need be.
Sealed brake fluid is great for this application. Do not pull the seal off. Make a hole instead. Now that most fluids come in plastic bottles, you treat it now like a bottle of catsup....
Speaking about catsup cap designs....they now have a 'diaphragm' incorporated in the squeeze hole. Though you have to regulate the finger pressure to over-ride the diaphragm, the cap-- or whole container-- would work great for distilled water fills, precision fork oil level top-off, and other creative ideas for fluids. The diaphragm would most likely hold back the fluid if tipped over.
Back to the basic idea.... Having the smallest hole possible in a liquid container, will spill less fluid if the bottle/can does happen to accidentally tip over......Less clean-up = saved product content.
Clutch Plate Road Repair:
Stranded on the road because your engine is moving faster than the bike itself? Burned the clutch so bad, the bike is going nowhere... Now what? If you have tools, you can pop out a steel plate, warp it at a few places and reinstall it in the center of the pack. If the clutch still slips, bend another steel, and then stagger both that will split the plates in 1/3rd increments. This should load enough plates to lock up the clutch to get it home.
One thing though. You'll need to step up the dexterity factor. Better find neutral before you come to a stop, and maybe fall over. Better roll the bike forward before placing the bike in gear, and possibility stalling the engine at the same time. We are talking a sprint car transmission here. It's either in gear, or it ain't!
Stay off the bike, and pay the tow bill if you find this above and beyond your current skills. Disclaimer over.
Originally posted by: wzfst1ce
Tricks Universal:
1. Hammer Phillips screw heads back in shape.
2. Find fork axle and handle bar caps with divots and arrows.
3. Setting fork and handle bar caps without divots and arrows for vibration free feel.
4. Assemble front end cap tightening sequence.
5.Remove head with cotton twine to save cooling fins from damage.
6. Remove carb limiter caps.
7. Never burn out another main fuse to find a short.
(1).Take a flat round punch that is equal to the diameter of the Phillips screw head, and pound the cross hatch back into shape. Place the correct numbered Phillips bit in the cross hatch and hammer to renew the cross. This will give the 'bite' back around the Phillips bit so it can be removed without drilling. It will both shock the threads, and save the screw for reuse.
(2). The half caps on Honda front fork and handle bars are stepped. Place the flat sides down, and look for the "gap" on the other end of the holding cap. The side (with more material) faces forward. This step design is how the bars and axles are clamped. You will find a punch mark on top of the cap or an arrow on the side of the half cap for easy recognition, and proper direction. Place these (divots/arrows) "forward on assembly." Torque the forward (divot/arrow) side first. Tighten the rear last.
(3). If you have a bike other than a Honda, some manufacturers use "even sided" half caps. Use a multi bladed feeler gauge, and clamp down these caps with precision evenness. Vibration at the axle and handle bars will be highly eliminated.
(4). A.Tighten front axle.
B.Tighten right side pinch bolt caps.
C. Push down on front suspension 2/3 times.
D. Tighten left pinch bolt caps on static return.
(5). If you have a stubborn head that won't come off, you can stuff cotton twine inside the cylinder chamber through the spark plug hole. Lower the piston, and keep stuffing twine inside. You will have to find TDC compression first, or you will bend an open valve(s) on a TDC stroke that is not on the compression stroke. Simply turn the crank, and the piston will compress the rope and crack the seal on the gasket. Remove the cotton rope and pack the other far cylinder on TDC compression. Break the gasket and theoretically, the head should come off without banging off a bunch of cooling fins. If the cylinder is not bolted down, consider this trick rendered useless. NOTE: If you find heavy resistance, then this may cause the rod to bend. Work accordingly.
(6). Use a soldering gun tip to melt the glue on the pilot screw limiter caps. They will drop off or can be carefully pulled off.
(7). Take two wires and two alligator clips, then connect them to a two pronged turn signal relay. This is now your fuse that will never burn out. Connect the alligator clips to each side of the fuse clip holders. Find the short until the relay stops clicking.
Bearing Packer:
Take a baggie, fill a corner with bearing grease. Drop bearing in corner with grease. Remove the air out of the bag by squeezing the bearing into the grease. Then spin the bag by twisting grease back down onto the bearing. Do not unwind the twist.
Begin squeezing the grease into the bearing until you no longer hear any air popping out of the bearing. Untwist the bag and pull out bearing.
Squeeze air out of the bag, and begin pushing the excess grease to the corner of the bag. Twist the bag again closed. Push grease as you pack the corner into a pastry decorating bag filler. Cut a small corner of the baggie. Squeeze grease to pack/lube selected areas.
Very close type measurements. Make two measuring tools out of welding rods.
1. Rear Wheel Alignment Tool.
A. Bend one end to a short "L" configuration. Slide on the other end, a small rubber hose (cut from a carb drain bowl) and notch or paint the center of the rubber piece.
B. Place the "L" in the center of the swing arm bolt. Drill a shallow hole in both ends of the swing arm bolt, if you can do it accurately.
C. Adjust chain slack. Then set "L" in shallow hole, then slide rubber (center mark) to the rear wheel axle. Do not move or bump the rubber tube. Place the rod on the other side of the swing and axle bolt centers, and turn adjuster screw in or out to match distance of the rubber's center.
D. Ignore (the offset) production cast and stamped markings on the swing arm and adjuster tangs. Tighten axle and recheck alignment. Theoretically, the rear axle is square to the swing arm pivot.
2. Fork Fluid Leveling Tool.
A. Bend one end of the welding rod into a short "U" shape. This will act as a static "hook" that lets the welding rod to drop and stop inside the fork tube.
B. Paint section of welding rod with white paint. When dry, mark incremental levels with a darker color. Other option is to "V" file notches in a section of the rod.
C. Pour factory recommended amount of fork fluid in one fork. Anti-dive type fork(s) my vary with amounts, and may not work well using this tool. Test to find out.
D. Measure fluid without spring installed. Extend or compress fork tubes. Length of welding rod will vary...your choice. Now simply match the fork fluid level of the first fork for equal fluid level against the second fork.
Small Hardware:
Frustrations abound when working with miniature ignition, instrument, or handle bar switch screws. They keep falling off the screwdriver’s tip right at the worst moment. Try this very old trick.
Cure for this is to take a magnet, and stroke down the shaft of the screwdriver. Do not scrub the shaft with the magnet, but start from the handle and end at the tip. Just glide it right off, and the electrons will (- + - + - + - + -) line right up.
What this does is lightly “Magnetize” the handle shaft. Place the screw on the blade tip and it should stay in place. Now you have at least a fighting chance to start the screw threads a few turns, rather than it falling off the blade, and then spend time searching for it somewhere hidden on the bike, or floor.
Demagnetize the screwdriver blade by tapping the blade with a few sharp blows to scatter the electrons back in the metal.
Finding TDC:
You really don't need to know how a 4-stroke engine works to work on your bike. About the only thing you want to remember is how to find TDC to set the cam timing or adjust valves.
Take a pair of chop sticks home the next time you go out to eat. A chop stick does less damage than a screwdriver or metal pointer/scribe.
Remove the spark plug(s) and be ready to place the stick down the plug hole.
Simply watch the intake valve go down. When it starts to come back up, carefully set the chop stick vertical (into the hole and let it move up through your fingers. Make sure it does not kink against the threads or be cocked where it will be crushed in the cylinder. The cranking can move faster than you can hold the stick straight.
Once the piston stops moving the chop stick, basically, you are at TDC. If it begins to fall back down, you went to far.
Engine Knocking Trick: Say you can hear a knocking noise coming from the engine? You want to eliminate as many variables before you tear the engine down.
Remove the spark plug(s) and find TDC as stated above. Remember when you went past TDC and felt the stick go down? This is where you want to be. Move the piston back down (after TDC) and then stop.
Some engine knocks can be caused by a burnt piston (smell that hole/read the s/plug), to a bad small end bearing, to a big end bearing about to weld itself onto the crank. The noise you want to chase, is one of these stated above.
Take the chop stick and press down on the piston. You want to make this subtle, because the only thing that is holding the piston up, are the rings. See, when you turned the crank, you pulled the con rod to move the piston down, the rings prevent the piston from falling onto the rod/crank. So when you push the chop stick on top of the piston, and it moves down (without moving the crank) you found your knock.
As long as you don't reach BDC (bottom)... you can recheck piston movement a few more times. No movement is a good sign.
Liquid Preservation:
Ever bump over a can of oil, polish, two-stroke mix, and make the Exxon Valdez almost look like an eye drop?
One trick, is to take a pointed metal scribe, and make a simple hole-- in the can or tube-- as big as the shaft of the scribe. Make the vent hole even smaller if need be.
Sealed brake fluid is great for this application. Do not pull the seal off. Make a hole instead. Now that most fluids come in plastic bottles, you treat it now like a bottle of catsup....
Speaking about catsup cap designs....they now have a 'diaphragm' incorporated in the squeeze hole. Though you have to regulate the finger pressure to over-ride the diaphragm, the cap-- or whole container-- would work great for distilled water fills, precision fork oil level top-off, and other creative ideas for fluids. The diaphragm would most likely hold back the fluid if tipped over.
Back to the basic idea.... Having the smallest hole possible in a liquid container, will spill less fluid if the bottle/can does happen to accidentally tip over......Less clean-up = saved product content.
Clutch Plate Road Repair:
Stranded on the road because your engine is moving faster than the bike itself? Burned the clutch so bad, the bike is going nowhere... Now what? If you have tools, you can pop out a steel plate, warp it at a few places and reinstall it in the center of the pack. If the clutch still slips, bend another steel, and then stagger both that will split the plates in 1/3rd increments. This should load enough plates to lock up the clutch to get it home.
One thing though. You'll need to step up the dexterity factor. Better find neutral before you come to a stop, and maybe fall over. Better roll the bike forward before placing the bike in gear, and possibility stalling the engine at the same time. We are talking a sprint car transmission here. It's either in gear, or it ain't!
Stay off the bike, and pay the tow bill if you find this above and beyond your current skills. Disclaimer over.
Making your own Electrolysis Tank - How-Tos and FAQs @ KawiForums.com
http://kawiforums.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=48680
Originally posted by: 03redzx6r
I searched all over the web and there is NOTHING on this except for Electrolysis for hair removal. Anyway, on to what usefulness this gadget has.
If anyone has a piece of iron (cast iron skillet) or steel gas tank from perhaps restoring an old motorbike, this is a great method of cleaning and stripping the paint without the use of harmful chemicals. I got the info from an older friend who restores vintage bikes as a hobby. Working for days myself after unsuccessfully trying to remove all the rust deposits from a 60's Honda CL77 tank, I tried this method and swear by it myself. So thought I'd share with my zx friends in case any of you have some projects that require extensive parts cleaning. Keep note it is not to be used for aluminum as it will completely dissolve. Here's the detailed instructions..........
_____________________________________________________________________
This is like giving someone written instructions on how to make a peanut butter sandwich! Simple task sounds much harder then it really is.
Supply's needed-
- container (tank). This must be a non-conductive and of a size to hold all the components of the system. I use a rubber maid tote, Hold 12 to 15 gal.
- Electrolyte solution; I recommend using sodium carbonate (other chemicals will work but this is the safest) The two best sources of this are, "Arm & Hammer Laundry detergent" (NOT A & H baking soda) and a product for controlling swimming pool Ph, (Ph+) Check to make sure it is sodium carbonate only though. You want nothing that will increase the chlorides in the solution
- Battery charger; It would be best if you could get one with an amp gauge and one that put out 25+ amps. Lower amps will work but will take much longer to do so.
- Anode; nice word for a chunk of scrap iron. I use a chunk of 2 ½ inch black pipe. (Do not use galvanized pipe the process will become hazardous if you do!!) Do not use stainless steel this produces a gas that has been shown to cause cancer in rats! (we don't want to kill any rats now do we?)
- cathode; What ever you are going to clean. Do not try to clean chrome plated or aluminum parts The chrome plating could come off and the aluminum just dissolve away to nothing!
connectors and wires
The set up-
The electrolyte, mix 1 cup to 5 gal of water A&H or 1 cup Ph+ per 10 gal. of water. You are not baking a cake, just get close. You can't put in too much or too little. As for the water tap water will work. Rain water or distilled works better. You can improve the action by getting some fish tank treatment to remove chlorides (as in chlorine) Tap water is full of chlorides (sodium chloride, sodium hypochlorite chlorine , calcium chloride and magnesium chloride to name the most common.) Chlorides will slow the process some. This solution will not go bad. It will get filthy but still work. When you can't stand to look at it any longer poor it on the grass! Plants love it (do not pour on acid loving plants; roses, pines, gardenias… )
You have your tank filled with the electrolyte. Place your anode into the solution in a way so that it is in the solution but can be connected to the positive side of the charger without the charger clip getting into the solution. You will also want to do this in a way it can be easily removed from the tank (you will understand why later)
Connect the cathode (the part to be cleaned) in the solution in a way it can be connected to the negative side of the charger. Use the same criteria as with the anode. Get your part as close to the anode as possible but not touching. Place it with the worst of what you want to remove facing the anode. While the cleaning process is not strictly "line of sight" It seems to be stronger on one side.
OK you are ready to start the process. Turn on the charger. The amp gauge should be showing close to your setting (as high as you can) If it shows nothing check your connections. If you are using the A&H detergent you will miss something neat! Your part and the anode will start to develop small bubbles! The soap suds will hide this. These bubbles are oxygen and hydrogen being removed from the water. The hydrogen part is why we want to do this with good ventilation! We do remember the Hindenburg don't we?
After an hour or so (a lot of variables can affect this) check you anode. If everything is working right it will look like it grew spines! And there may be a green-gray sludge on it as well. Clean it off. I scrap it with a wire brush and water hose. The cleaner you keep the anode the more affective the cleaning! That is why I said to hook it up the way I did. I know you will take this opportunity to look at your part go ahead, you may or you may not see any changes yet. Don't worry about leaving it in there too long You can't! Once all the nasty has been pulled off the GOOD metal it will just continue to break up the water molecules and not harm the part. As soon as you think you are happy with the condition of your part take it out of the tank, use a high pressure water hose to get the loose stuff off. And if you need to put it back in go ahead if not. Dry it and get a coat of rust inhibitor on it ASAP!
I think once you get going you will see it is really very simple. Just remember; positive to the scrap negative to your part. And don't stick your hand in the solution without turning off the charger first! If the amperage is under 30 it should not have any affect but better safe then sorry!
Tried out electrolysis on my rust fuel tank and she
cleaned right up. For those of you who are on a budget it will cost you
next
to nothing to clean your tank. First of all you will need a plastic 5
gallon
bucket, add 1/2 cup of Arm and Hammer Washing Soda. This is important
it’s
Washing Soda not baking soda (see note 1 below). Fill
the bucket with water
and
mix it well. Pull the tank and drain the fuel. Remove the petcock and
wash
out the tank with lots of water. Fashion a cover to block the petcock
orifice.
I used a strip of 1/8" aluminum and used an old inner tube as a gasket.
I
set the tank on a piece of carpet and blocked it up to get it as level
as
possible. I then filled the tank with the washing soda solution. Then I
took
a coat hanger and fashion the sacrificial anode. You say what???? Ok
this
is the trickiest part of the procedure.
A little background on how electrolysis works (see actual photos below):
Its very simple really. As current
passes through an object it moves from negative to positive, so what
you are doing is passing a current through the rust on the tank, which
breaks its bond, and the rust then flows and attaches itself to the
positive charge on the sacrificial anode. Or at least it releases the
rust from the tank and floats around in the washing soda solution. The
idea with the sacrificial anode is
to insure that it does not touch the tank anywhere, you must insure it
only
come in contact with the washing soda solution or you will have a
direct short.
For my project I found a nice little plastic
cap and drilled two 1/8" holes in it about 1" apart. I then took the
coat hanger and bent it over and over until I had four loops on one end
that spread about 1" when grouped together (see fig. 1 below). Think about the
business end of a fork that you eat with, that’s what it should look
like. Then about 4" back from the business end of the fork make a
90-degree bend in the two wires and run them up through the plastic
cap. Put the sacrificial anode into the tank and spin it around to
insure the anode is not hitting anywhere on the tank (no short
circuits) (see fig 2 below).
Then using a 12-volt battery charger hook the positive lead to the
sacrificial anode and the negative lead to the fuel tank. I used the
mounting flange that
sits under the seat (see figs 3 and 4
below). Let her cook for several days. Mine took three days.
I pulled the anode twice a day and cleaned it with a wire brush. I have
a
small battery charger so it may take less time with a larger charger.
Anyway
my tank is back on and this morning I rode her into work and she never
skipped
a beat.
Update: Some of you have asked what did you coat the tank with to stop
further rusting? Nothing. Its bare metal. Some of you guys have
suggested two ways of coating the tank. 1. Use phosphoric acid and
slosh it around to coat the tank. 2. Use POR-15, I have heard this is
the stuff to use. I was also told to stay away from Kreem. The Suzuki
T-500 I own had a fuel tank coated in Kreem and it is crap, so I would
agree.
-Ken for questions, email me at cfsboy@sbcglobal.net
Originally posted by: 03redzx6r
I searched all over the web and there is NOTHING on this except for Electrolysis for hair removal. Anyway, on to what usefulness this gadget has.
If anyone has a piece of iron (cast iron skillet) or steel gas tank from perhaps restoring an old motorbike, this is a great method of cleaning and stripping the paint without the use of harmful chemicals. I got the info from an older friend who restores vintage bikes as a hobby. Working for days myself after unsuccessfully trying to remove all the rust deposits from a 60's Honda CL77 tank, I tried this method and swear by it myself. So thought I'd share with my zx friends in case any of you have some projects that require extensive parts cleaning. Keep note it is not to be used for aluminum as it will completely dissolve. Here's the detailed instructions..........
_____________________________________________________________________
This is like giving someone written instructions on how to make a peanut butter sandwich! Simple task sounds much harder then it really is.
Supply's needed-
- container (tank). This must be a non-conductive and of a size to hold all the components of the system. I use a rubber maid tote, Hold 12 to 15 gal.
- Electrolyte solution; I recommend using sodium carbonate (other chemicals will work but this is the safest) The two best sources of this are, "Arm & Hammer Laundry detergent" (NOT A & H baking soda) and a product for controlling swimming pool Ph, (Ph+) Check to make sure it is sodium carbonate only though. You want nothing that will increase the chlorides in the solution
- Battery charger; It would be best if you could get one with an amp gauge and one that put out 25+ amps. Lower amps will work but will take much longer to do so.
- Anode; nice word for a chunk of scrap iron. I use a chunk of 2 ½ inch black pipe. (Do not use galvanized pipe the process will become hazardous if you do!!) Do not use stainless steel this produces a gas that has been shown to cause cancer in rats! (we don't want to kill any rats now do we?)
- cathode; What ever you are going to clean. Do not try to clean chrome plated or aluminum parts The chrome plating could come off and the aluminum just dissolve away to nothing!
connectors and wires
The set up-
The electrolyte, mix 1 cup to 5 gal of water A&H or 1 cup Ph+ per 10 gal. of water. You are not baking a cake, just get close. You can't put in too much or too little. As for the water tap water will work. Rain water or distilled works better. You can improve the action by getting some fish tank treatment to remove chlorides (as in chlorine) Tap water is full of chlorides (sodium chloride, sodium hypochlorite chlorine , calcium chloride and magnesium chloride to name the most common.) Chlorides will slow the process some. This solution will not go bad. It will get filthy but still work. When you can't stand to look at it any longer poor it on the grass! Plants love it (do not pour on acid loving plants; roses, pines, gardenias… )
You have your tank filled with the electrolyte. Place your anode into the solution in a way so that it is in the solution but can be connected to the positive side of the charger without the charger clip getting into the solution. You will also want to do this in a way it can be easily removed from the tank (you will understand why later)
Connect the cathode (the part to be cleaned) in the solution in a way it can be connected to the negative side of the charger. Use the same criteria as with the anode. Get your part as close to the anode as possible but not touching. Place it with the worst of what you want to remove facing the anode. While the cleaning process is not strictly "line of sight" It seems to be stronger on one side.
OK you are ready to start the process. Turn on the charger. The amp gauge should be showing close to your setting (as high as you can) If it shows nothing check your connections. If you are using the A&H detergent you will miss something neat! Your part and the anode will start to develop small bubbles! The soap suds will hide this. These bubbles are oxygen and hydrogen being removed from the water. The hydrogen part is why we want to do this with good ventilation! We do remember the Hindenburg don't we?
After an hour or so (a lot of variables can affect this) check you anode. If everything is working right it will look like it grew spines! And there may be a green-gray sludge on it as well. Clean it off. I scrap it with a wire brush and water hose. The cleaner you keep the anode the more affective the cleaning! That is why I said to hook it up the way I did. I know you will take this opportunity to look at your part go ahead, you may or you may not see any changes yet. Don't worry about leaving it in there too long You can't! Once all the nasty has been pulled off the GOOD metal it will just continue to break up the water molecules and not harm the part. As soon as you think you are happy with the condition of your part take it out of the tank, use a high pressure water hose to get the loose stuff off. And if you need to put it back in go ahead if not. Dry it and get a coat of rust inhibitor on it ASAP!
I think once you get going you will see it is really very simple. Just remember; positive to the scrap negative to your part. And don't stick your hand in the solution without turning off the charger first! If the amperage is under 30 it should not have any affect but better safe then sorry!
Nobody looks back on his or her life and wishes they'd spent more time at work.
Brotherhood smells like gasoline
Brotherhood smells like gasoline
Tried out electrolysis on my rust fuel tank and she
cleaned right up. For those of you who are on a budget it will cost you
next
to nothing to clean your tank. First of all you will need a plastic 5
gallon
bucket, add 1/2 cup of Arm and Hammer Washing Soda. This is important
it’s
Washing Soda not baking soda (see note 1 below). Fill
the bucket with water
and
mix it well. Pull the tank and drain the fuel. Remove the petcock and
wash
out the tank with lots of water. Fashion a cover to block the petcock
orifice.
I used a strip of 1/8" aluminum and used an old inner tube as a gasket.
I
set the tank on a piece of carpet and blocked it up to get it as level
as
possible. I then filled the tank with the washing soda solution. Then I
took
a coat hanger and fashion the sacrificial anode. You say what???? Ok
this
is the trickiest part of the procedure.
A little background on how electrolysis works (see actual photos below):
Its very simple really. As current
passes through an object it moves from negative to positive, so what
you are doing is passing a current through the rust on the tank, which
breaks its bond, and the rust then flows and attaches itself to the
positive charge on the sacrificial anode. Or at least it releases the
rust from the tank and floats around in the washing soda solution. The
idea with the sacrificial anode is
to insure that it does not touch the tank anywhere, you must insure it
only
come in contact with the washing soda solution or you will have a
direct short.
For my project I found a nice little plastic
cap and drilled two 1/8" holes in it about 1" apart. I then took the
coat hanger and bent it over and over until I had four loops on one end
that spread about 1" when grouped together (see fig. 1 below). Think about the
business end of a fork that you eat with, that’s what it should look
like. Then about 4" back from the business end of the fork make a
90-degree bend in the two wires and run them up through the plastic
cap. Put the sacrificial anode into the tank and spin it around to
insure the anode is not hitting anywhere on the tank (no short
circuits) (see fig 2 below).
Then using a 12-volt battery charger hook the positive lead to the
sacrificial anode and the negative lead to the fuel tank. I used the
mounting flange that
sits under the seat (see figs 3 and 4
below). Let her cook for several days. Mine took three days.
I pulled the anode twice a day and cleaned it with a wire brush. I have
a
small battery charger so it may take less time with a larger charger.
Anyway
my tank is back on and this morning I rode her into work and she never
skipped
a beat.
Update: Some of you have asked what did you coat the tank with to stop
further rusting? Nothing. Its bare metal. Some of you guys have
suggested two ways of coating the tank. 1. Use phosphoric acid and
slosh it around to coat the tank. 2. Use POR-15, I have heard this is
the stuff to use. I was also told to stay away from Kreem. The Suzuki
T-500 I own had a fuel tank coated in Kreem and it is crap, so I would
agree.
-Ken for questions, email me at cfsboy@sbcglobal.net
Note 1: ARM & HAMMER®
Super Washing Soda is 100% sodium carbonate and is used as a laundry
booster and general household cleaner. ARM & HAMMER® Baking
Soda is 100% sodium bicarbonate and has a myriad of household
cleaning, personal care, and deodorizing uses, as well as being a
leavening agent.
Note from Clay: The photos are mine. I used this method on
rather rusty Kawasaki tank I had, and it worked wonderfully. I
lined this tank with the Yamaha brand tank rusr remover/protector
(about $14.00 at my local dealer) and it is holding up well.
Figure
1
Figure 2
1
Figure 2
Figure
3
Figure 4
3
Figure 4
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