Welcome to my "Motorcycle Stuff" page

Welcome to my blog spot.

I'll try to share useful motorcycle links, information and how-to on this page. Feel free to add to it or leave comments.

For the blog archive, please scroll down. you'll see it on the left hand column. Thank you, and have fun.

Discalimer & Credits: Most of the stuff I have here is copy & paste. These are just excerpts from long discussions. There may be updates/contradictions/changes to this information. I encourage you to review the original posts for details and discussion. For the full articles and discussion, PLEASE visit the link and THANK the original authors. I just compiled this information, nothing more. Credit is due to those who originally posted these.

Saturday, June 9, 2007

No more cotter pins. - How-Tos and FAQs @ KawiForums.com

http://kawiforums.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=42717

Originally posted by: ninjamaster6-10




If you guys are tired of foolin around with your cotter pins everytime you adjust your chain try this.Attached image
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Attached imageIt's called a lynch pin and it's easy as hell to take off and put back on.No pliers,no trying to straighten the bent cotterpin,just pull off and reinstall.Been using for over 7 years on all my bikes.

Updated by: GldRush98

I just use a hitch-pin style clip.

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(1/8" is close thickness)

Oil Thread - How-Tos and FAQs @ KawiForums.com

http://kawiforums.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20475

This discussion is toooooooooooooooooooooooooo long to try and cop & paste. Just go ahead and read it :)

Free horsepower!! -mods for cheap - How-Tos and FAQs @ KawiForums.com

http://kawiforums.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22113

Originally posted by: crawdad369




well I'm sure alot of you cheap asses are bored and would love to do any cheap mods that you can, so here you go.

03-04 636's have a diverter in the airbox inwhich the 6RR does not have, this can be removed by drilling out the two rivets.Attached image
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K@N and BMC filters are nice but cost $$$$$$. You can modify your stock airfilter by removing the screen with a flatblade screwdriver. Make sure that you dont leave any metal shavings and clean that dirty filter.Attached image
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If you have heard of the Kleen air mod or pair valve removal then you probably know that there are a couple different ways of doing this. Here are a few pics of my method.

Remove the tank and airbox, look on top of the valve cover for the plastic valve. I remove this with the vac. line and use a 3/8" tee and 3/8" fuel line. I use these to replace the factory valve, but instead of reconnecting to the airbox I reroute this to the crankcase breather which I point at in the picture. The vac line is pluged and the airbox ports are pluged.Attached image
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HOW TO: HID/PROJECTOR RETROFIT 636 - How-Tos and FAQs @ KawiForums.com

http://kawiforums.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=44667

Originally posted by: Ninjanator

The moment many of you have been waiting for. If you are like me and absolutely love lighting you're gonna love this,if you don't really care about lights and such and think the stock reflector halogens are good, then go to sleep. You are all welcomed to ask questions, comments, concerns, add your 2 pennies, whatever.

So in my opinion the lights on all bikes in general suck ass, maybe excluding a few Ducatis. I have a Honda S2000 and I love the HID lights they come with, so I got an idea and decided to retrofit projectors and HIDs into my 2003 636.

What you are about to read is a HOW-TO on retrofiting projectors into your bike. This does not mean that you need to use the exact same projectors or HID kit or whatever that I used. Use this information at your own risk. IF YOU ELECTROCUTE YOURSELF, BURN YOURSELF, LIGHT YOUR HOUSE ON FIRE, MAKE YOUR BIKE EXPLODE, CHOKE ON A PRETSEL, OR ANYTHING HAPPENS TO YOU I AM NOT HELD RESPONSIBLE. Remember, I am a premed student and not an electrician, not a professional. USE COMMON SENSE!

Originally I wanted S2000 projectors, but they were way too expensive so I went with my second choice: Audi A4 projectors. These Audi projectors are known for their remarkably small size and great cut off line. Attached image
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So you are going to need Ballasts (2), Projectors (2), ignitors (2) ***some ballasts are already equipped with ignitors, Shrouds (2) if you are into looks or whatever, and ofcourse 2 HID xenon charged bulbs.

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Go ahead and remove your front fairing as well as remove the headlight assembly after that. When you get to the headlight assembly, you will need to take it apart, either by sticking in a preheated oven set @ 400 degrees or use a hair blow drier. Since i'm paranoid there was no way I was gonna stick my headlights in the oven, so I sat like an idiot for about 25minutes with the blow drier in order to melt the silicone and pry the headlight apart. You will need to wedge a flathead screw driver between the headlight while the glue is melting in order to pry it open. Be careful and don't break the headlight, since it is made out of plastic, and don't burn yourself.
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oh yea you might want to test your HID bulbs and projectors to make sure everything is working properly before you begin installing faulty material.

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Tools most likely needed will be a drill, silicone to reseal your headlights after you are done (to prevent humidity from going inside your headlight and fogging it up), screws, nuts, black paint (to paint the housing and make it look cool), JB weld if you are going to weld shrouds onto the projectors.
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So make accurate measurements and drill 4 holes to the back of your headlight. My Audi projectors had 4 original mounting holes so they were the ones I chose to run 6 inch screws through. Through the screws I used spring in order to create backpressure and allow to align up and down, left and right. *******be sure that the projector shield is on the bottom side of the projector, or else when you light them up you will shoot light at the sky, and you'll be a deuche bag for sure.

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AFter your projectors are securely installed inside your headlights, light them on and adjust before actually putting the headlight on the bike, this will facilitate the process enormously!. If satisfied with your beam pattern, go ahead and seal the headlight with the silicone, let it cure for 24 hours, and istall into bike. The ballasts and ignitors I installed to the underside of the covers (whatever those black plastics are called). This keeps them from getting wet (even though they are wheather proof) and keeps them from bouncing around or any crazy stunt shit that you do.



Trust me, it is a night and day difference. The results are unbelievable!!!

All I am going to say is have some fun with this, take your time, and if you lose your patience (which you most likely will many times) have a punching bag close by. If you have temper tantrums drink a beer or two to calm you down. This took me approximately 12 hours to do. The hardest part is taking the lights apart (but if you have balls and can afford melting your headlights, stick them in the oven. Make sure you prehead the over to 400, then turn it off, stick the headlights in for about 5-8 minutes.) Adjusting is sorta of a pain in the ass too, but it is all well worth it. I will take pics of the beam pattern tomorrow night and post them on here.

let me know what you think...
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How to remove/re-fit Seat/Tail/ECU on 00-02 ZX-6R. - How-Tos and FAQs @ KawiForums.com

http://kawiforums.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=83394

Originally posted by: Deathace

This HOW-To is to be used in conjunction with replacing the US ECU with the UK one for the ZX600J 00-02 ZX-6R & 05-07 ZZR600.

First take off the pillion seat or seat cowl from the rear tail section.
Remove the 10mm bolt securing the rider seat to the sub-frame and remove rider seat
(pull up at rear and lift towards the back of bike)

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Then remove the handles from the rear by undoing the hex bolts to the rear of the handles and the 12mm bolts inside securing the front of the handles.

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Remove the 2 bolts securing the bottom of the tail section to the underside of the black under tail (yours may differ from the example).

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Also remove the 2 screws securing each side of the front of the tail section to the sub-frame.

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Once all of the tail bolts are removed you can now remove the locking mechanism which holds your seat/cowl in place,
to do this undo the 2 screws holding it to the top of the sub-frame.

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With all of the bolts removed and the locking mechanism free you can now remove the tail section by pulling apart the 2 tabs at the front where the 2 side screws were
and pull it towards the rear of the bike past the rear lights and off of the bike (be careful to watch your locking mechanism doesn’t snag).

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On the left side of the bike (opposite to exhaust) in the middle of the sub-frame you will see the ECU.

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Gently pry off the 2 plugs on the bottom (they have a locking tab (pinch and pull) DON’T SNAP THEM).

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Plug the UK ECU into these 2 plugs and confirm your engine starts if it does, turn off the ignition and un-plug the UK ECU and put it to one side.
Undo the 3 x 10mm bolts holding the ECU to the sub-frame and remove it, place the UK ECU where the stock one came from and bolt it up.
Connect the plugs and repeat the engine start process to confirm that your engine starts up, if it does push the plugs all the way on to the ECU and lock in place,
turn off the ignition again and begin putting all of the parts back on your bike.


Re-fitting is the reverse of removal.
Once the bike is back together and you have made sure the handles are replaced tight start your engine and let it warm up,
get your protective equipment on along with helmet and gloves and go and enjoy your new found power.

Russ
Deathace's ZX-6R Website
00 ZX-6R Red/Black 108bhp/170mph Various Mods.
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