http://www.zinio.com/express2?issue=206338267
(Thanks for Sharing Sharad)
Tuesday, July 3, 2007
Wednesday, June 27, 2007
Monday, June 18, 2007
Hot Weather Riding Tips
Original location:
http://www.soundrider.com/archive/safety-skills/when_youre_hot.htm
When You’re Hot, You’re HOT!
by David L. Hough
The ride south over the Siskiyou Mountains from Oregon to California started out cool enough. Up at 4,000 feet, it was chilly enough that I was glad I had added the jacket liner and neck warmer. But a hundred miles later, as I descend down into the Sacramento Valley, the temperature begins to soar. By the time I reach Oroville, the temperature signs are flashing 118 F. It’s another hundred and fifty miles to the rally site at Mariposa in triple-digit temperatures.
A rider passes by in the opposite lane, jacket bungeed on the back, bare chest exposed to the hot blast. I wave, but there is no response. His exposed skin is red, and he doesn’t even appear to have noticed me, a bad sign that he’s on the fringe of heat exhaustion. I don’t wish any problems on a fellow motorcyclist, but there are lots of riders who have to contribute to the statistics before they crack the code.
To continue the ride, I go into hot weather survival mode. Full riding gear, including riding pants, leather boots, and gloves, and a knit neck "cooler" saturated with water. As quickly as the fabric dries out in the blast-furnace wind, I flip the faceshield open, squeeze a gusher of water down my chin, and slam the faceshield shut again. The water dribbles down to wet the neck cooler and my shirt inside the jacket. About 10 seconds after the water penetrates the neck cooler, it cools from evaporation in the hot air, and sucks some heat out of my neck.
I stop at a fast-food outlet every few miles to replenish the water bottle with ice and water. Whether riding or stopping for water, other people stare at me in disbelief. Peering out of their air-conditioned cars, or sitting in an air-conditioned restaurant, they just can’t understand how anyone could tolerate being outside during a heat wave, bundled up in heavy riding gear.
Your body has automatic "thermostats" to protect the core organs from heat stress, including sweating, vasodilation, increase in heart rate and reduction of blood pressure. If these tactics don't keep core temperature within the redline, the body gives you warnings such as heat cramps. If you don’t take care of the problem, it gets more serious, including heat exhaustion and heat stroke.
Sweating
The body has sweat glands to keep the skin damp. The evaporating sweat sucks heat from the skin, and transfers it to the air. Of course sweat is primarily water, so it’s critical to keep replenishing the supply. That's one reason why we need to drink about a pint of water every hour during hot, dry conditions. One problem for motorcyclists is that at highway speed, the sweat glands may not keep up with the evaporation. Or, if the sweating uses up too much water, your body temperature regulating system goes on the fritz, like a dry battery.
Vasodilatation
To help cool down the core, blood vessels enlarge to circulate more blood (and therefore body heat) towards the skin. If ambient air temperature is lower than body temperature, excess heat can be absorbed by the air. But if the air gets hotter than the skin, the increased blood flow simply soaks up more heat from the air and pumps it back to the core.
Heart rate and blood pressure
The heart responds to increasing heat ("hyperthermia") by increasing the heart rate to pump more blood into those enlarged blood vessels. As the air temperature rises, heart rate (pulse) can increase 50% to 70% faster than the normal resting rate. The increased flow causes blood pressure to drop, and blood flow is shunted away from muscles and brain, towards the skin. Consider the implications of those changes on a motorcyclist. The lowered blood pressure reduces muscle control and brain activity, and more blood is pumped towards the skin--where it is vulnerable to road rash
Symptoms of trouble
The human body won't take much of an increase in core temperature without complaining. The symptoms of overheating are leg cramps, tired muscles, headaches, dizziness, and even fainting. The various symptoms are trying to tell you how overcooked you're getting.
Heat Cramps
Muscle cramps caused by heat usually effect the legs and lower abdomen first, then the arms. Heat cramps are a symptom that the body's electrolytes are running low. It’s not smart to ignore muscle cramps. Find some shade and take a break. Sip water or an "exercise" drink Exert firm pressure or massage the cramped muscles to relieve the spasms. If you’re still in pain, the recommended first aid dose is 1/2 teaspoon of table salt per half glass of water every 15 minutes.
Heat Exhaustion
Heat exhaustion occurs as the body continues to shunt blood away from the brain and muscles. Symptoms of heat exhaustion include:
1. Headaches, dizziness, nausea, momentary fainting
2. Cramps
3. Tiredness, weakness
4. Profuse sweating
5. Pale, clammy skin
6. Approximately normal body temperature
If you begin to feel these symptoms during a desert ride, take immediate action before you pass out. 1. Get into some shade, preferably into an air-conditioned room.
2. Loosen clothing and wet down skin or undershirt to increase evaporative cooling.
3. Slowly sip water, or salt water solution, same dose as for heat cramps. Avoid alcohol or caffeine.
4. If you feel faint, lie down and get feet raised above head level.
5. If you can’t keep the salt water down, get emergency medical aid. You may need an intravenous salt solution.
6. Even after you begin to feel normal again, consider staying out of the heat for a day or two. Your body needs some time to recuperate. If you are on a long trip, consider a 24 hour layover in the next air-conditioned motel.
Heat Stroke
If you experience heat exhaustion and just try to "tough out" the heat without getting cooled down and rehydrated, the body thermostats will begin to fail. Core temperature continues to rise (may go as high as 106 or 107 degrees F.), sweating stops, the heart beats even faster, and you may pass out. If you are coherent enough to recognize the symptoms, immediately get medical aid while you are still mobile. And watch your riding buddies for any of the following heat stroke symptoms.
1. Victim incoherent, staring vacantly, blanking out, or unresponsive
2. Skin hot, red, dry (no perspiration)
3. Rapid pulse
4. Body temperature elevated
Yes, heat stroke is life threatening. It’s a medical emergency. Don’t be bashful about calling 911 for assistance. In the meanwhile,
1. Get the victim into some shade, out of riding gear, and cooled down by any means available. If possible, get the victim into an air-conditioned room, or use fans to help provide evaporative cooling.
2. Repeatedly sponge skin with cool water or rubbing alcohol. Apply cold packs or ice cubes if you can get them. The goal is to get body temperature below 102 degrees F.
3. Don't give the victim any stimulants, especially not any alcoholic beverages.
4. If the victim's temperature begins to rise again, repeat the cooling process.
5. As soon as possible, get the victim to emergency treatment.
Avoiding the Ugliness
Even after a heat stroke victim has been cooled down and rested, the ugliness isn’t over. It’s not uncommon to have intestinal upset for a week or so, with food coming out both ends of the pipe. I know you’d rather avoid that sort of ugliness.
People from cooler climates often react to hot weather by removing clothing. That helps cool the skin--providing air temperature is less than body temperature. Heat transfers from a hot object to a cold object. Pick up an ice cube, and it feels cold. What’s happening is that the ice is rapidly absorbing heat from your skin. Even if the air is 89F, the air will absorb heat from your skin (assuming your body is around 99F). Now, consider what happens when you curl your fingers around a hot cup of coffee. Your skin rapidly absorbs heat from the cup, because the cup is hotter than your hand. The same thing occurs when the air temperature is hotter than your body temperature.
You may think your body is hot at 99 F, but it’s "cold" compared to air at 118 F. If you expose your skin to air that’s hotter than you are, your body just soaks up more heat.
The lesson here is that if air temperature is in the 80s or 90s, it helps to open up the jacket vents, or wear a mesh jacket. But once air temperature climbs above 99 F, the best way to keep from getting cooked is to keep your insulation on, and the vents closed. Desert nomads wear long, loose wool garments, both to keep the sweating skin in the shade, and to insulate the body from the hot air.
With the temperature in triple digits, I wear my leather gloves and insulated riding. My feet are down in the air stream that’s first been heated up by the pavement, and then heated some more by the engine. Are my feet hot? Sure, but not as hot as if I were wearing thin boots or shoes that exposed my ankles.
Same for the helmet. Wouldn’t it make sense to crack my visor when it’s really hot, or at least open up the helmet vents? Nope. Any hot air allowed to reach my skin will heat up the skin, not cool it down. Inside my helmet at 118F, I’m sweltering, but the temperature is probably under 100 F. That crushable helmet liner inside the shell is there to cushion my brain against impacts, but it’s the same expanded polystyrene foam they use to make insulated picnic coolers. So, the helmet actually provides insulation against the hot air.
One additional concern about exposed skin is sun and wind burn. Even if you wear heavy duty sunscreen to protect against a nasty sunburn, the wind at motorcycling speeds can also irritate the skin. If you’re riding more than a few miles, it’s best to keep your skin covered.
Evaporative Cooling
More physics now. When water evaporates, it cools down. Blow hot air through a wet bandana, and the bandana cools down. Cooling the skin cools the blood, which cools down the whole body. Evaporative cooling works best on areas of the body where there are large blood vessels close to the skin: the groin and the neck. A motorcyclist's groin is too close to the engine and too far out of the air stream. That's why wearing something wet around your neck is so important.
The bad news is that evaporative cooling only works well in dry climates. When the humidity is already high, (you're 99/99 in Missouri in August--99 degrees and 99 percent) neither perspiration nor the water in your neckband evaporate very well. Limited evaporation; limited cooling. But of course there is shade in Missouri, so the best tactic may be to simply take more breaks in humid climates. Or, you can ride early in the morning when it’s cool, and rest in the shade in the afternoon.
For those of us riding in the deserts of Washington, Oregon, and California, the air is relatively dry, so evaporative cooling works very well. A wet bandana around your chin will cool you for a few minutes, but the hot wind blast will quickly evaporate all the water. You need to keep replenishing the water every few minutes. Better yet, wear thicker fabric that holds a lot more water.
For instance, Aerostich makes an "Evapodanna" made of the same fuzzy material used in camp towels. ("evaporative bandana", get it?) You just saturate it with water, and wrap it around your neck. Occasionally dribble some water on it and it will continue to cool all day. There are also some tubular neckties containing special polymer crystals that soak up a huge quantity of water. They are an advantage for slow speed activities such as golf, but the crystals release the water very slowly, and can’t give off enough water at motorcycling speeds to provide much evaporative cooling.
Keep Your Tummy Tank Full
The other important tactic for hot weather is to drink lots of water, to replenish your electrolytes and refill your sweat glands. We’re talking at least a pint per hour. Exercise drinks containing "electrolytes" (salts) are acceptable, unless you have high blood pressure. And flavored drinks may be very high in sugar, too. Carbonated soft drinks are better than nothing, although it would be best to get the water without large doses of salt, sugar and chemicals. Almost all grocery stores and convenience markets have chilled filtered water in plastic bottles, handy for both drinking and wetting down your bandana.
More than a few riders carry a water bladder, such as a "Platypus" carried on the back in a fabric holster, or in a jacket pocket. Some water bladders can be pressurized with small pumps, and evaporative cooling wrappers are available to help chill the bladder. Aerostich is a good source of serious hot weather hydration devices. Aerostich: (800) 222-1994 or www.aerostich.com. You can also find water bladders at sporting goods stores such as REI in Seattle.
In hot weather, avoid alcoholic drinks. Obviously, alcohol reduces judgment. What’s not so obvious is that alcohol stimulates abnormal heartbeats, depresses the pump function of the heart, and actually dehydrates the body. Alcohol does all the wrong things for a motorcyclist in the desert.
So, when it’s really hot, keep your jacket on, and soak down your T-shirt. Wear a wet neck cooler, and keep dribbling water on it. If you’re getting too hot, or start feeling any hints of muscle cramps or heat exhaustion, don’t just keep riding. Take steps to cool down while you’re still thinking clearly. Take a break in the shade, or stop at a convenience store and buy a bag of crushed ice to stuff inside your jacket. The melting ice water will soak your gear and provide evaporative cooling even after the ice is gone.
Route Planning
In general, higher elevations are cooler. If it’s really hot down on the valley floor, consider an alternate road with a higher (cooler) elevation. Sometimes you don’t have any alternative other than crossing a desert. But you can adjust your schedule. One tactic is to hibernate at a cool motel during the heat of the day, and head out after dark, when the temperature is lower.
Adjust your thinking
If you live in a temperate area where the thermometer seldom rises above 90F, you need to readjust your thinking for those forays into hotter territory. Remember, insulate your skin from the sun and hot air, use evaporative cooling around your neck, and drink lots of water. Oh yeh, learn to ignore the stares of other motorists and dehydrated bikers who think you’re crazy to wear heavy gear on a hot day.
David Hough is a long-time motorcyclist and journalist. His work has appeared in numerous motorcycle publications, but he is best known for the monthly skills series “Proficient Motorcycling” in Motorcycle Consumer News, which has been honored by special awards from the Motorcycle Safety Foundation. Selected columns were edited into a book “Proficient Motorcycling” published by Bowtie Press. He is also the author of “Driving A Sidecar Outfit”. A pocket handbook, “Street Strategies” is also on the market as is More Proficient Motorcycling.
http://www.soundrider.com/archive/safety-skills/when_youre_hot.htm
When You’re Hot, You’re HOT!
by David L. Hough
The ride south over the Siskiyou Mountains from Oregon to California started out cool enough. Up at 4,000 feet, it was chilly enough that I was glad I had added the jacket liner and neck warmer. But a hundred miles later, as I descend down into the Sacramento Valley, the temperature begins to soar. By the time I reach Oroville, the temperature signs are flashing 118 F. It’s another hundred and fifty miles to the rally site at Mariposa in triple-digit temperatures.
A rider passes by in the opposite lane, jacket bungeed on the back, bare chest exposed to the hot blast. I wave, but there is no response. His exposed skin is red, and he doesn’t even appear to have noticed me, a bad sign that he’s on the fringe of heat exhaustion. I don’t wish any problems on a fellow motorcyclist, but there are lots of riders who have to contribute to the statistics before they crack the code.
To continue the ride, I go into hot weather survival mode. Full riding gear, including riding pants, leather boots, and gloves, and a knit neck "cooler" saturated with water. As quickly as the fabric dries out in the blast-furnace wind, I flip the faceshield open, squeeze a gusher of water down my chin, and slam the faceshield shut again. The water dribbles down to wet the neck cooler and my shirt inside the jacket. About 10 seconds after the water penetrates the neck cooler, it cools from evaporation in the hot air, and sucks some heat out of my neck.
I stop at a fast-food outlet every few miles to replenish the water bottle with ice and water. Whether riding or stopping for water, other people stare at me in disbelief. Peering out of their air-conditioned cars, or sitting in an air-conditioned restaurant, they just can’t understand how anyone could tolerate being outside during a heat wave, bundled up in heavy riding gear.
Your body has automatic "thermostats" to protect the core organs from heat stress, including sweating, vasodilation, increase in heart rate and reduction of blood pressure. If these tactics don't keep core temperature within the redline, the body gives you warnings such as heat cramps. If you don’t take care of the problem, it gets more serious, including heat exhaustion and heat stroke.
Sweating
The body has sweat glands to keep the skin damp. The evaporating sweat sucks heat from the skin, and transfers it to the air. Of course sweat is primarily water, so it’s critical to keep replenishing the supply. That's one reason why we need to drink about a pint of water every hour during hot, dry conditions. One problem for motorcyclists is that at highway speed, the sweat glands may not keep up with the evaporation. Or, if the sweating uses up too much water, your body temperature regulating system goes on the fritz, like a dry battery.
Vasodilatation
To help cool down the core, blood vessels enlarge to circulate more blood (and therefore body heat) towards the skin. If ambient air temperature is lower than body temperature, excess heat can be absorbed by the air. But if the air gets hotter than the skin, the increased blood flow simply soaks up more heat from the air and pumps it back to the core.
Heart rate and blood pressure
The heart responds to increasing heat ("hyperthermia") by increasing the heart rate to pump more blood into those enlarged blood vessels. As the air temperature rises, heart rate (pulse) can increase 50% to 70% faster than the normal resting rate. The increased flow causes blood pressure to drop, and blood flow is shunted away from muscles and brain, towards the skin. Consider the implications of those changes on a motorcyclist. The lowered blood pressure reduces muscle control and brain activity, and more blood is pumped towards the skin--where it is vulnerable to road rash
Symptoms of trouble
The human body won't take much of an increase in core temperature without complaining. The symptoms of overheating are leg cramps, tired muscles, headaches, dizziness, and even fainting. The various symptoms are trying to tell you how overcooked you're getting.
Heat Cramps
Muscle cramps caused by heat usually effect the legs and lower abdomen first, then the arms. Heat cramps are a symptom that the body's electrolytes are running low. It’s not smart to ignore muscle cramps. Find some shade and take a break. Sip water or an "exercise" drink Exert firm pressure or massage the cramped muscles to relieve the spasms. If you’re still in pain, the recommended first aid dose is 1/2 teaspoon of table salt per half glass of water every 15 minutes.
Heat Exhaustion
Heat exhaustion occurs as the body continues to shunt blood away from the brain and muscles. Symptoms of heat exhaustion include:
1. Headaches, dizziness, nausea, momentary fainting
2. Cramps
3. Tiredness, weakness
4. Profuse sweating
5. Pale, clammy skin
6. Approximately normal body temperature
If you begin to feel these symptoms during a desert ride, take immediate action before you pass out. 1. Get into some shade, preferably into an air-conditioned room.
2. Loosen clothing and wet down skin or undershirt to increase evaporative cooling.
3. Slowly sip water, or salt water solution, same dose as for heat cramps. Avoid alcohol or caffeine.
4. If you feel faint, lie down and get feet raised above head level.
5. If you can’t keep the salt water down, get emergency medical aid. You may need an intravenous salt solution.
6. Even after you begin to feel normal again, consider staying out of the heat for a day or two. Your body needs some time to recuperate. If you are on a long trip, consider a 24 hour layover in the next air-conditioned motel.
Heat Stroke
If you experience heat exhaustion and just try to "tough out" the heat without getting cooled down and rehydrated, the body thermostats will begin to fail. Core temperature continues to rise (may go as high as 106 or 107 degrees F.), sweating stops, the heart beats even faster, and you may pass out. If you are coherent enough to recognize the symptoms, immediately get medical aid while you are still mobile. And watch your riding buddies for any of the following heat stroke symptoms.
1. Victim incoherent, staring vacantly, blanking out, or unresponsive
2. Skin hot, red, dry (no perspiration)
3. Rapid pulse
4. Body temperature elevated
Yes, heat stroke is life threatening. It’s a medical emergency. Don’t be bashful about calling 911 for assistance. In the meanwhile,
1. Get the victim into some shade, out of riding gear, and cooled down by any means available. If possible, get the victim into an air-conditioned room, or use fans to help provide evaporative cooling.
2. Repeatedly sponge skin with cool water or rubbing alcohol. Apply cold packs or ice cubes if you can get them. The goal is to get body temperature below 102 degrees F.
3. Don't give the victim any stimulants, especially not any alcoholic beverages.
4. If the victim's temperature begins to rise again, repeat the cooling process.
5. As soon as possible, get the victim to emergency treatment.
Avoiding the Ugliness
Even after a heat stroke victim has been cooled down and rested, the ugliness isn’t over. It’s not uncommon to have intestinal upset for a week or so, with food coming out both ends of the pipe. I know you’d rather avoid that sort of ugliness.
People from cooler climates often react to hot weather by removing clothing. That helps cool the skin--providing air temperature is less than body temperature. Heat transfers from a hot object to a cold object. Pick up an ice cube, and it feels cold. What’s happening is that the ice is rapidly absorbing heat from your skin. Even if the air is 89F, the air will absorb heat from your skin (assuming your body is around 99F). Now, consider what happens when you curl your fingers around a hot cup of coffee. Your skin rapidly absorbs heat from the cup, because the cup is hotter than your hand. The same thing occurs when the air temperature is hotter than your body temperature.
You may think your body is hot at 99 F, but it’s "cold" compared to air at 118 F. If you expose your skin to air that’s hotter than you are, your body just soaks up more heat.
The lesson here is that if air temperature is in the 80s or 90s, it helps to open up the jacket vents, or wear a mesh jacket. But once air temperature climbs above 99 F, the best way to keep from getting cooked is to keep your insulation on, and the vents closed. Desert nomads wear long, loose wool garments, both to keep the sweating skin in the shade, and to insulate the body from the hot air.
With the temperature in triple digits, I wear my leather gloves and insulated riding. My feet are down in the air stream that’s first been heated up by the pavement, and then heated some more by the engine. Are my feet hot? Sure, but not as hot as if I were wearing thin boots or shoes that exposed my ankles.
Same for the helmet. Wouldn’t it make sense to crack my visor when it’s really hot, or at least open up the helmet vents? Nope. Any hot air allowed to reach my skin will heat up the skin, not cool it down. Inside my helmet at 118F, I’m sweltering, but the temperature is probably under 100 F. That crushable helmet liner inside the shell is there to cushion my brain against impacts, but it’s the same expanded polystyrene foam they use to make insulated picnic coolers. So, the helmet actually provides insulation against the hot air.
One additional concern about exposed skin is sun and wind burn. Even if you wear heavy duty sunscreen to protect against a nasty sunburn, the wind at motorcycling speeds can also irritate the skin. If you’re riding more than a few miles, it’s best to keep your skin covered.
Evaporative Cooling
More physics now. When water evaporates, it cools down. Blow hot air through a wet bandana, and the bandana cools down. Cooling the skin cools the blood, which cools down the whole body. Evaporative cooling works best on areas of the body where there are large blood vessels close to the skin: the groin and the neck. A motorcyclist's groin is too close to the engine and too far out of the air stream. That's why wearing something wet around your neck is so important.
The bad news is that evaporative cooling only works well in dry climates. When the humidity is already high, (you're 99/99 in Missouri in August--99 degrees and 99 percent) neither perspiration nor the water in your neckband evaporate very well. Limited evaporation; limited cooling. But of course there is shade in Missouri, so the best tactic may be to simply take more breaks in humid climates. Or, you can ride early in the morning when it’s cool, and rest in the shade in the afternoon.
For those of us riding in the deserts of Washington, Oregon, and California, the air is relatively dry, so evaporative cooling works very well. A wet bandana around your chin will cool you for a few minutes, but the hot wind blast will quickly evaporate all the water. You need to keep replenishing the water every few minutes. Better yet, wear thicker fabric that holds a lot more water.
For instance, Aerostich makes an "Evapodanna" made of the same fuzzy material used in camp towels. ("evaporative bandana", get it?) You just saturate it with water, and wrap it around your neck. Occasionally dribble some water on it and it will continue to cool all day. There are also some tubular neckties containing special polymer crystals that soak up a huge quantity of water. They are an advantage for slow speed activities such as golf, but the crystals release the water very slowly, and can’t give off enough water at motorcycling speeds to provide much evaporative cooling.
Keep Your Tummy Tank Full
The other important tactic for hot weather is to drink lots of water, to replenish your electrolytes and refill your sweat glands. We’re talking at least a pint per hour. Exercise drinks containing "electrolytes" (salts) are acceptable, unless you have high blood pressure. And flavored drinks may be very high in sugar, too. Carbonated soft drinks are better than nothing, although it would be best to get the water without large doses of salt, sugar and chemicals. Almost all grocery stores and convenience markets have chilled filtered water in plastic bottles, handy for both drinking and wetting down your bandana.
More than a few riders carry a water bladder, such as a "Platypus" carried on the back in a fabric holster, or in a jacket pocket. Some water bladders can be pressurized with small pumps, and evaporative cooling wrappers are available to help chill the bladder. Aerostich is a good source of serious hot weather hydration devices. Aerostich: (800) 222-1994 or www.aerostich.com. You can also find water bladders at sporting goods stores such as REI in Seattle.
In hot weather, avoid alcoholic drinks. Obviously, alcohol reduces judgment. What’s not so obvious is that alcohol stimulates abnormal heartbeats, depresses the pump function of the heart, and actually dehydrates the body. Alcohol does all the wrong things for a motorcyclist in the desert.
So, when it’s really hot, keep your jacket on, and soak down your T-shirt. Wear a wet neck cooler, and keep dribbling water on it. If you’re getting too hot, or start feeling any hints of muscle cramps or heat exhaustion, don’t just keep riding. Take steps to cool down while you’re still thinking clearly. Take a break in the shade, or stop at a convenience store and buy a bag of crushed ice to stuff inside your jacket. The melting ice water will soak your gear and provide evaporative cooling even after the ice is gone.
Route Planning
In general, higher elevations are cooler. If it’s really hot down on the valley floor, consider an alternate road with a higher (cooler) elevation. Sometimes you don’t have any alternative other than crossing a desert. But you can adjust your schedule. One tactic is to hibernate at a cool motel during the heat of the day, and head out after dark, when the temperature is lower.
Adjust your thinking
If you live in a temperate area where the thermometer seldom rises above 90F, you need to readjust your thinking for those forays into hotter territory. Remember, insulate your skin from the sun and hot air, use evaporative cooling around your neck, and drink lots of water. Oh yeh, learn to ignore the stares of other motorists and dehydrated bikers who think you’re crazy to wear heavy gear on a hot day.
David Hough is a long-time motorcyclist and journalist. His work has appeared in numerous motorcycle publications, but he is best known for the monthly skills series “Proficient Motorcycling” in Motorcycle Consumer News, which has been honored by special awards from the Motorcycle Safety Foundation. Selected columns were edited into a book “Proficient Motorcycling” published by Bowtie Press. He is also the author of “Driving A Sidecar Outfit”. A pocket handbook, “Street Strategies” is also on the market as is More Proficient Motorcycling.
Thursday, June 14, 2007
Monday, June 11, 2007
Carb Shimming
Original Page:
http://www.gstwins.com/zx6r/zx6r_shim.htm
http://www.gstwins.com/zx6r/zx6r_shim.htm
How to Shim Kawasaki
ZX6R Carb Needles
(specific to years 2000-2002 but should work for earlier models too)
This relatively easy job helps smooth out the power dip felt in the
ZX6R at about 5k rpm -this should work fine with zx6R's with stock or bolt-on
systems or even full systems. On other bikes I have owned this mod has had varying degrees
of success so I decided to try it with the ZX6R. My wife's 2002 ZX6R always had a
*gulp* when I whacked open the throttle and once I made this small mod the problem went
away. If you have some mechanical ability you will want to do this mod as the
difference is very noticeable in throttle response. Shims are .020" thick
and 3mm ID you can find something close enough at Radio Shack or you can purchase shims
for $2.37 ($2 + postage) HERE
| Remove the seat by unbolting the seat bracket |  |
| Remove the two bolts that hold the bracket at the rear of the gas tank. Remove the little breather hose at the rear of the gas tank. |  |
| Remove the two gas tank bolts under the top triple clamp. |  |
| Turn fuel petcuck to the OFF position. Remove fuel petcock knob with a phillips head screwdriver. Don't forget this or you'll probably snap it off when removing the tank! |  |
| Raise the gas tank and identify fuel hose by the fuel petcock (see pic below) . Now you can prop up the tank and might be able to do the job without removing the tank but why? You risk tearing the fuel hose and make the job harder. (don't ask me how I know this) |  |
| Once you get the fuel line off the petcock you're ready to remove the air box. Remove the breather hose and start taking the bolts off. |  |
| A 10mm socket and a ratchet makes the air box removal easier. Remove all the bolts from around the air box. |  |
| Remove the air box cover and the air filter. May be a good time to inspect the filter and make sure its clean and doesn't need replacement (a restrictive air filter can cause the bike to run rich and lose power).. |  |
 | |
| Remove the velocity stacks from the carbs -they are easy to remove with a good screwdriver. They are held on with two screws and note the taller ones are in the middle. |  |
| Now remove the bottom half of the air box. There a number of screws around the carbs and the hoses for the ram air need to be removed (its easy, just pull them off). |  |
| Remove vacuum valve cover by removing 2 screws. *WARNING* there is one tiny o-ring under the vacuum valve cover that will fall down into the motor. It is imperative you find it or order a couple from your dealer ahead of time (Kaw p/n 16038-022). I located all of them and had to fish them out with tape on the end of a long screwdriver. I used a tiny smear of contact cement in the cover to hold o-ring in place to reinstall. Also, after I did the job I thought about using silicone sealant instead due to ease of use (just a tiny smear on the o-ring then stick it to the cover). You must put them back and whatever you do, don't block the air port! THIS IS THE TRICKIEST PART OF THE JOB. |  |
| Remove the vacuum valve by carefully pulling on the diaphragm. |  |
| The vacuum valve will easily slide out. |  |
| Time to shim! Remove needle holder with a pair of needle nose pliers. Use a gentle rocking motion while pulling and watch for the little spring under it. Watch this Shim procedure in Windows *consider right clicking and saving to your disk for |  |
| Pry off the plastic spacer and insert the shim. The ZX6R seemed to work best with one per needle. |  |
| Now repeat the process for the remaining 3 needles and you're done! Now you simply reassemble the carbs, the air box and gas tank and enjoy. If you need shims you can buy for $2.37 ($2 + postage) HERE |  Exploded to show shim -these items |
| If you are happy with this page and it helped consider making a small paypal donation |
Sunday, June 10, 2007
Motorcycle tire changing & balancing videos
Motorcycle tire removal
Motorcycle Tire Balancing
Motorcycle Tire installation
When to change motorcycle tires:
Motorcycle Tire Balancing
Motorcycle Tire installation
When to change motorcycle tires:
Motorcycle tire changing & Balancing
Original location:
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing.html
This is a great how to about tire changing. It also has directions for a home made tire changing station setup
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing.html
This is a great how to about tire changing. It also has directions for a home made tire changing station setup
Online parts Microfiche for your bike
Via these links, you can find the part numbers, and exploded schematics of your motorcycle parts:
http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/getman.cfm
http://www.ronnies.com/micro.htm
http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/OEM-Parts-Nav.asp
http://www.mrcycles.com/
There are lots more vendors/suppliers out there but these are the few that came up on the search. I'm not endorsing these vendors, shop at your own risk.
http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/getman.cfm
http://www.ronnies.com/micro.htm
http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/OEM-Parts-Nav.asp
http://www.mrcycles.com/
There are lots more vendors/suppliers out there but these are the few that came up on the search. I'm not endorsing these vendors, shop at your own risk.
Saturday, June 9, 2007
Only a rich man can afford to buy cheap tools
Here's a review and comparison of different tool brands:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Ratings_Of_Tools_By_Brand
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Ratings_Of_Tools_By_Brand
Ratings Of Tools By Brand
From Ninja250Wiki
Contents[hide] |
[edit]
"Only a rich man can afford to buy cheap tools"
Courtesy of RiceBurner
Where do tools become "too rich for your blood"? Obviously, the same tools are not needed for different people... a professional body man can use a 60 tooth 1/4" ratchet that costs 75 bucks, because there are times when you simply need that close, small ratchet motion. However, most of us working on our own bikes just to save money wouldn't consider that. We'll stick with the Craftsman ratchet that only has 45 teeth, so it has a larger swing, but it also only costs 25 bucks.
Here's a guide on how to "value-rate" tools and decide which brand you need for your purposes.
It's set up like this:
- Brand Name
- Cost (1-5) Why? (1 is cheapest, 5 is most expensive)
- Value (1-5) Why? (1 is worst value, 5 is best value.)
- Warranty (1-5) Describes warranty, dealer availability for warranty, and turn around time. (1 bad, 5 good)
- Usablity (does it work how it's supposed to?) (1-5) Why or why not? (1 doesn't work 5 you keep finding new uses for old tools.)
- Overall rating (1-5)
[edit]
Snap-On
Cost: 4 Tools are expensive, partly because the dealers are mobile and will often drive where you are.
Value: 4 While expensive, the tools are high quality, perhaps the best I've consistently seen. If they weren't so expensive, I would rate them a 5. There is an additional factor, as well. Since Snap-On is mobile, you will often deal with the same person when buying tools. A first name basis with your tool man is a Good Thing.
Warranty: 4 All hand tools have lifetime replacement warranty, unless it is apparent the tool has been abused. Power tools have a 1 or 2 year warranty, depending. It is hard to track down the dealer, though he does come by my work place every Wednesday. Since the dealer is mobile, he cannot stock as much as say, Sears, so turn around time varies... anything in stock is immediate; anything else must be ordered.
Usability: 5 I've never used a Snap-On tool and thought "wow, this doesn't work." Ratchets have more teeth for smaller ratchet swing than any other brand I've used. Sockets are high quality, and never slip, even on slightly rounded bolts/nuts. Screwdrivers have a very comfortable handle, and IMHO you can apply more force to them than most other screwdrivers. LOTS of specialty tools... if you can imagine a tool, they have it, and it will probably work really well.
Overall: 4 Great tools, Great service, need a central store. Good stuff to buy if you never want to buy another tool like it again. Too bad they are so expensive, often 20-30% higher than Craftsman, sometimes more.
[edit]
Blue-Point
The only difference between Snap-On and Blue-Point is where the parts are made. Snap-On is 100% made in USA. Blue-Point can have parts from all over the world, *but* they are manufactured to the same level of quality as Snap-On.
Cost: 3.5 About the same as Craftsman most of the time. Not as expensive as Snap On.
Value: 4 Less cost, but less quality, compared to Snap-On.
Warranty: 4 I've never broken a Blue-Point tool, as I don't own many. Blue-point has the same warranty as Snap-on.
Overall: 4 Similar to Craftsman's "Companion" series. Slightly lesser quality (but still very good) and slightly cheaper costs. A good tool for home mechanics, and several of the guys at the shop here use Blue-Point tools (perhaps because the Snap-On one is too expensive.) If Snap-On is out of your budget, but you want high quality, get Blue-Point. You won't regret it.
[edit]
Craftsman
Craftsman makes a range of "qualities", from Ace Hardware to near Snap-On. Their Craftsman Professional hand tools are pretty well-regarded.
Cost: 3.5 Somewhat expensive unless you get a sale, but not so much as Snap-On.
Value: 5 I rate these highly because they are still very good quality tools, with a good warranty, and for less than Snap-On.
Warranty: 4 Lifetime no questions asked replacement on hand tools. Almost always in stock, zero turn around time. Power tools aren't as great, 1 year limited warranty, with option to buy 2nd year of the same for a few bucks when you get the tool. Very easy to find a Sears store.
Usability: 5 As with Snap-On, these tools never fail unless you use them wrong. The worst I've had happen was breaking the tip of a P2 phillips driver while using it correctly. Very stubborn screw, though. A quick trip to Sears, and I had a new one.
Overall: 5 It's hard to get such a good combination of price, value, and warranty. For me, Craftsman is simply the best for a home mechanic, or in many cases a professional. Many of my tools at work are Craftsman.
[edit]
Companion
Cost: 2.5 Fairly good tools at a cheap price.
Value: 4 Cheap price offsets crappy warranty. Tools are definately not ultra high quality. I have a set of 1/4 drive deepset sockets, and I have been using them at work for almost a year with virtually no problems at all. Sockets do not fit on bolts as snugly as Craftsman, Snap-On, or Blue-Point. Wrench quality is suspect - I would avoid Companion wrenches.
Warranty: 1 Non existent.
Overall: 3.5 A good starter tool set for a budding home mechanic. Not so great for professionals. Sockets seem to be the best value in this brand. Too bad there's no warranty. There is more difference in quality between Craftsman and Companion than between Snap-On and Blue-Point.
[edit]
Ace Hardware
Cost: 2 Pretty cheap tools. Good for quick purchases when you can't get to a tool you already own, but not so great for a final tool purchase.
Value: 3 Mediocre quality offsets cheap cost.
Warranty: 1 As far as I know, there is none. A deal breaker for me.
Usability: 3 They work correctly, but I wouldn't reach for a 12 point Ace socket when I need to bust loose a stubborn bolt. I notice some rounding on sockets after much use, and the drive side of it (where you hook up the ratchet) also rounds a little, but nothing close to failing to hook up with the ratchet drive.
Overall 2: No warranty, OK manufacturing, and a half-way selection of sockets at the store gets this brand a lower rating. Good thing they are cheap... that's about all they have going for them.
[edit]
Great Neck
I won't comment too much on this brand, as I have limited experience with them. The few tools I have bought work reasonably well, and were cheap, but they were lacking in quality. Casting marks on brad-removers, amongst other things, stand out in my mind.
[edit]
Mac
Again, not much Mac experience. Rumor says good tools. Perhaps someone can confirm?
[edit]
Matco
Never even seen one. My buddy says they are great, somewhere between Snap-On and Craftsman, but you pay for it. Lifetime warranty for hand tools, although their website warranty info is "legally obtuse" (ask about the warranty before you buy anything.)
[edit]
KD
Cost: 4 KD makes alot of specialty tools, and you pay for it.
Value: 4 Remember those ratcheting flex head gear wrenches? These guys started that... Gear Wrench is owned by KD. Sometimes, there's nothing else that will work.
Warranty: Haven't had to warranty a KD tool yet. Unsure exactly what the warranty is. My KD tools are ordered through Snap-On, though we also have a direct account, so getting the warranty is probably a little harder than getting Snap-On warranties...
Overall: 3 Specialty tool company makes special tools. Sometimes, there's nothing like them, but WHEW. I spent 179 bucks for a wrench set... 8-19MM complete. 12 wrenches. That's close to 15 bucks each!
[edit]
Harbor Freight
Cost: 1 Harbor Freight sells cheap cheap cheap tools. Between one quarter to half the Craftsman price.
Value: 2 While incredibly inexpensive, HF tools are also very cheap, particularly the hand tools. They're made in China, and have highly variable quality control. Some of the tools are fine, but some of them fall apart before you use them the first time. Interestingly, the more complex and expensive the tool, the higher quality they seem to be (I have an air impact wrench which cost $18 and has held up fairly well under light use).
Warranty: There's a warranty? Actually, within their warranty time (which is 30 days? 90? Something like that), the HF store I've dealt with has been very good about exchanges with no questions. It's a very short warranty period, though.
Overall: HF has an amazing selection of tools (check them out: http://www.harborfreight.com/), including everything from screwdrivers to welders to CNC mills. They're all surprisingly inexpensive, and some of them are actually decent. Presumably, as the Chinese ramp up their quality (which is visibly happening even now), HF tools will become a better deal. Don't buy hand tools there, but if you need to weld something and only have $100 to spend on a welder, HF is the place to go. Also good for "I need it now, I need it to work once" tools.
(HF section by IanJ)
[edit]
Other Options
NAPA Autoparts has a "Professional Series" ratchet set for $70 or so. They seem to be durable and of "Great Neck" (middle of the road) quality. The set includes: deepwells and short sockets both metric and standard from sizes 4mm-19mm and 5/32"-7/8", two ratchets, two extensions, a converter for 3/8" to 1/4" drive, a nutdriver, two spark plug sockets and a nice plastic carry-all attache' to keep it all in place. There is not a single 12 point socket in the whole set. Overall, I found it to be a very good value for someone who does not regularly do heavy duty work. I do not know if they would hold up to hard labor, but I think so.
I have a Greatneck pullbar and a two Greatneck torque wrenches that also fill the bill. No problems so far. All my other tools are Craftsman. For the householder or the guy who likes to do his own oil changes and valve adjustments, I highly recommend both Napa and Greatneck. But for the pro's, probably not.
Tire unusual markings and wear patterns
This page shows the effects of improper suspension settings on tires, and how to diagnose them visually.
Thanks Bryce!
Feel The Track! Tire unusual markings and wear patterns
Thanks Bryce!
Feel The Track! Tire unusual markings and wear patterns
|
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
Motorcycle break in tips. There are lots of different opinions on how to break your engine in.
Here's a brief explanation
It has been pointed out that every motorcycle model Kawasaki makes comes with the same, 4000 RPM initial break-in limit sticker on the tach. This really isn't fair, because of gearing. Some bikes do 50 mph or more in top gear at 4000 rpm, while the Ninja 250 only does 35 mph, so the bike that does 50 mph in top gear will consume 500 miles sooner. It's really backwards, because EX250 works harder, and would break itself in sooner than, say, a 2-liter, 5k RPM-redline Kawasaki Vulcan. But a mindful break-in is still important.
This is a much-debated topic; some say baby it, some say ride it like you stole it. I'm just going to put up my take on the matter, backed up with a few empirical items.
The fact is that an engine is not fully broken for several thousands of miles. During that period, you have to respect it more than you would a fully broken in engine. That said, the Ninja 250 is probably 95% broken in by 500 miles. And it's probably 90% broken in by 50 miles. Still -- and this is really beside the point of this article -- the engine is not fully broken in until 5000 miles or so, when everything in the engine is completely seated, at which point the engine begins to ever-so-slowly deteriorate (just like you grow until you're 27 years old, then you start to die).
Now, what does "respecting the engine" mean? Generally, it's all about friction and lubrication. Until the engine is run in, there is more friction and less lubrication on critical parts (valves, cams, rings, bearings, etc). These parts must be in good shape for the engine to run efficiently and for long periods of time. Exceed the proper RPMs, and the unworn components will get too hot too fast; you will get hardened rings, scored cylinders, and valves that do not seat correctly. This may not make a huge difference at first, but the increased wear will encourage more advanced wear. Loss of compression, noisy bearings, leaking seals... the list is extensive. But it adds up to less power and shorter engine life span in the long run.
So again: What is the proper respect? What are the proper RPMs? This is a matter of much disagreement. But here is what is usually agreed upon: Do not mess with an engine until it is fully heated up, fully lubricated and ready to be pushed. No one will disagree that multiple, progressive heat cycles are a Good ThingTM, and that frequent oil changes early can never hurt.
Is there a formula for all this? Not exactly, but here's a good method I would use: make the engine work harder the more you break it in, always keeping the temperature and friction inside in mind.
Here's an example from Duke, who competed in the 2005 Iron Butt Rally on an EX250 he built for the purpose of competing:
Here's the details of the break-in of my rally bike. This motor was basically brand-new - then re-built from scratch with minor oil flow and valve seat modifications. It completed 9,500 miles during the Iron Butt Rally in Aug./Sept. 2005. The motor was started for the first time in March 2005. As of January 2006, it has 22,000 miles.
NOTE - complete cooldown between each run (at least 4 hours). Used Castrol GTX 10W-40.
* Initial Startup Idle 10 minutes Coolant to full temperature.
* Ride #1 5 miles 5-8k Spinning motor w/ no load
* Ride #2 8 miles 5-10k Short medium loading
* Ride #3 12 miles 5k-12k-5k Short loading (Wide Open Throttle) / Engine braking
* Ride #4 15 miles 5k-14k-5k Short loading (WOT) / Engine braking
* Ride #5 20 miles 5k-14k-5k Short loading (WOT) / Engine braking
Oil/filter change
* Ride #6 22 miles 8k-14.5k-8k Short loading (WOT) / Engine braking
* Ride #7 38 miles 8k-14k-8k Short loading (WOT) / Engine braking
* Ride #8 15 miles 5k-12k Commute to work on Interstate - Vary RPMs
* Ride #9 15 miles 5k-12k Commute to work on Interstate - Vary RPMs
* Ride #10 15 miles 5k-12k Commute to work on Interstate - Vary RPM
* More commuting up to just over 500 miles
Oil/Filter change
* 768 miles Nashville, TN to Omaha, NE - Interstate - Ride as normal
* 768 miles Omaha, NE to Nashville, TN - Interstate - Ride as normal
It then went on the 48-hour MD-20/20 Rally - Covering just over 2,000 miles during the 48 hours. In July it went 5,100 miles in 4 days, 22 hours. It had 10,000 miles on it at the beginning of the IBR in late August. Changed to Rotella 5W-40 Synthetic at 5k, just before the 5-day ride. 10K at the start of the IBR. I felt the motor began to feel 'broken-in' between 7-9k miles.
This is the strongest Ninja250 I've personally ridden. The amount of oil it burned during the IBR varied from none to about 1/4 qt. per 1,000 miles.
(source: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Do_I_really_have_to_follow_this_break-in_period%3F)
This is an example of HARD Break-in method.
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
Disclaimer: There's a lot of controversy an objection on this kind of break in method.The directions given on this site WILL contradict your manufacturers' instructions. If you decide to do it, do it at your own risk, and if you screw your engine up don't come about suing me.
Here's another one:
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
Here's a brief explanation
It has been pointed out that every motorcycle model Kawasaki makes comes with the same, 4000 RPM initial break-in limit sticker on the tach. This really isn't fair, because of gearing. Some bikes do 50 mph or more in top gear at 4000 rpm, while the Ninja 250 only does 35 mph, so the bike that does 50 mph in top gear will consume 500 miles sooner. It's really backwards, because EX250 works harder, and would break itself in sooner than, say, a 2-liter, 5k RPM-redline Kawasaki Vulcan. But a mindful break-in is still important.
This is a much-debated topic; some say baby it, some say ride it like you stole it. I'm just going to put up my take on the matter, backed up with a few empirical items.
The fact is that an engine is not fully broken for several thousands of miles. During that period, you have to respect it more than you would a fully broken in engine. That said, the Ninja 250 is probably 95% broken in by 500 miles. And it's probably 90% broken in by 50 miles. Still -- and this is really beside the point of this article -- the engine is not fully broken in until 5000 miles or so, when everything in the engine is completely seated, at which point the engine begins to ever-so-slowly deteriorate (just like you grow until you're 27 years old, then you start to die).
Now, what does "respecting the engine" mean? Generally, it's all about friction and lubrication. Until the engine is run in, there is more friction and less lubrication on critical parts (valves, cams, rings, bearings, etc). These parts must be in good shape for the engine to run efficiently and for long periods of time. Exceed the proper RPMs, and the unworn components will get too hot too fast; you will get hardened rings, scored cylinders, and valves that do not seat correctly. This may not make a huge difference at first, but the increased wear will encourage more advanced wear. Loss of compression, noisy bearings, leaking seals... the list is extensive. But it adds up to less power and shorter engine life span in the long run.
So again: What is the proper respect? What are the proper RPMs? This is a matter of much disagreement. But here is what is usually agreed upon: Do not mess with an engine until it is fully heated up, fully lubricated and ready to be pushed. No one will disagree that multiple, progressive heat cycles are a Good ThingTM, and that frequent oil changes early can never hurt.
Is there a formula for all this? Not exactly, but here's a good method I would use: make the engine work harder the more you break it in, always keeping the temperature and friction inside in mind.
Here's an example from Duke, who competed in the 2005 Iron Butt Rally on an EX250 he built for the purpose of competing:
Here's the details of the break-in of my rally bike. This motor was basically brand-new - then re-built from scratch with minor oil flow and valve seat modifications. It completed 9,500 miles during the Iron Butt Rally in Aug./Sept. 2005. The motor was started for the first time in March 2005. As of January 2006, it has 22,000 miles.
NOTE - complete cooldown between each run (at least 4 hours). Used Castrol GTX 10W-40.
* Initial Startup Idle 10 minutes Coolant to full temperature.
* Ride #1 5 miles 5-8k Spinning motor w/ no load
* Ride #2 8 miles 5-10k Short medium loading
* Ride #3 12 miles 5k-12k-5k Short loading (Wide Open Throttle) / Engine braking
* Ride #4 15 miles 5k-14k-5k Short loading (WOT) / Engine braking
* Ride #5 20 miles 5k-14k-5k Short loading (WOT) / Engine braking
Oil/filter change
* Ride #6 22 miles 8k-14.5k-8k Short loading (WOT) / Engine braking
* Ride #7 38 miles 8k-14k-8k Short loading (WOT) / Engine braking
* Ride #8 15 miles 5k-12k Commute to work on Interstate - Vary RPMs
* Ride #9 15 miles 5k-12k Commute to work on Interstate - Vary RPMs
* Ride #10 15 miles 5k-12k Commute to work on Interstate - Vary RPM
* More commuting up to just over 500 miles
Oil/Filter change
* 768 miles Nashville, TN to Omaha, NE - Interstate - Ride as normal
* 768 miles Omaha, NE to Nashville, TN - Interstate - Ride as normal
It then went on the 48-hour MD-20/20 Rally - Covering just over 2,000 miles during the 48 hours. In July it went 5,100 miles in 4 days, 22 hours. It had 10,000 miles on it at the beginning of the IBR in late August. Changed to Rotella 5W-40 Synthetic at 5k, just before the 5-day ride. 10K at the start of the IBR. I felt the motor began to feel 'broken-in' between 7-9k miles.
This is the strongest Ninja250 I've personally ridden. The amount of oil it burned during the IBR varied from none to about 1/4 qt. per 1,000 miles.
(source: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Do_I_really_have_to_follow_this_break-in_period%3F)
This is an example of HARD Break-in method.
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
Disclaimer: There's a lot of controversy an objection on this kind of break in method.The directions given on this site WILL contradict your manufacturers' instructions. If you decide to do it, do it at your own risk, and if you screw your engine up don't come about suing me.
Here's another one:
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
Motorcycle Oil Filter Cross Reference
One of the most detailed sites about motorcycle oils and oil filters.
It explains the differences between oil weights, how they might affect your motorcycle, etc.
They also compare different brands.
Motorcycle Oil Filter Cross Reference
It explains the differences between oil weights, how they might affect your motorcycle, etc.
They also compare different brands.
Motorcycle Oil Filter Cross Reference
Motorcycle FAQ - Ninja250Wiki
One of the best resources you can find about motorcycle maintenance. Even though it's tailored towards Kawasaki Ninja 250, I'm sure you;ll find lots of general information.
Main Page - Ninja250Wiki
Main Page - Ninja250Wiki
A great source
This is a great source for motorcyclists and DIY kind of people.
You can find great write-ups (with pictures) on motorcycle maintenance, up keep or modifications.
They may not directly refer to your motorcycle, but most of the information contained are pretty common on most motorcycles (like oil change, coolant change, carb synchronization, etc.)
Enjoy, and when you're referring to this page, please give credit to the original author.
Once you're in the site, click on the links on former bikes list.
Ottawa Motorcyclist
You can find great write-ups (with pictures) on motorcycle maintenance, up keep or modifications.
They may not directly refer to your motorcycle, but most of the information contained are pretty common on most motorcycles (like oil change, coolant change, carb synchronization, etc.)
Enjoy, and when you're referring to this page, please give credit to the original author.
Once you're in the site, click on the links on former bikes list.
Ottawa Motorcyclist
Zip tie throttle mod pics... - 2003-2006 ZX-6R @ KawiForums.com
This is a cheap alternative to quarter turn throttle mod.If you don;t want to shell out $ for a new throttle, you might want to try this.
Zip tie throttle mod pics... - 2003-2006 ZX-6R @ KawiForums.com
Zip tie throttle mod pics... - 2003-2006 ZX-6R @ KawiForums.com
Motorcycle Suit Review-Non-Leather
Here are reviews and descriptions of some motorcycle suits:
Olympia Phantom (Thanks Abe!)
Olympia Phantom - webBikeWorld
High Velocity:
http://www.highvelocitygear.com/productpages/601061.html
Aerostitch (Thanks Sharad!)
http://www.aerostich.com/catalog/US/Roadcrafter-p-1-c-249.html
Olympia Phantom (Thanks Abe!)
Olympia Phantom - webBikeWorld
High Velocity:
http://www.highvelocitygear.com/productpages/601061.html
Aerostitch (Thanks Sharad!)
http://www.aerostich.com/catalog/US/Roadcrafter-p-1-c-249.html
how to install factory shitft kit on ZX636
This is a very detailed step by step instruction with pictures as a visual aid:
BARF - Bay Area Riders Forum - how to install factory shitft kit on ZX636
BARF - Bay Area Riders Forum - how to install factory shitft kit on ZX636
Ninja 600R how-to, installing exhaust systems - How-Tos and FAQs @ KawiForums.com
http://kawiforums.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=26358
Since the clymer wasn't specific to the bike, I figure I'll write this quick how-to on installing pipes to serve as a reference for future 600R owners.
Note: This only applies to zx600c series, or Ninja 600R's between 88-97. This does not apply to the zx-6, zx-6r, or zx-6rr. Installation of exhausts for zx600a/b series is well documented in the Clymer/Haynes manual.
You should have the following:
-replacement exhaust
-exhaust gaskets
-10, 12, 14mm sockets, extension and closed ended wrenches
-various thickness philips head screwdrivers
-various sized allan wrenches
1.) Remove the fairing
-Remove the six (6) lower fairing allan screws and lift the lower fairing by bringing it forward and out to one side. It's a little tricky, but if you angle it correctly, you can do it without scratching or dragging the plastic on the ground or against the bike.
-Remove the six (6) philips screws that secure the windscreen to the upper fairing and remove the windscreen. Excessive force should not be necessary.
-Using the key to twist to unlock the hook on the rear left side, remove the seat straight off the bike.
-Remove the screws on the rear of the side panels
-Pull the vinyl panels/kneepads sideways, off the bike. They are secured by a single tab on the upper fairing. If you're afraid of breaking any plastic, you can reach your finger behind the vinyl panel/kneepad and push on the tab. It'll pop right out. Avoid excessive force as the plastic mounting tabs are easy to break.
-Remove the screws at the bottom of the upper fairing.
-After pulling up on the rubber boot, remove JUST THE LOWER allan bolts from the mirrors. It is not necessary to remove the upper bolts; they screw into the fairing.
-Remove the screws at the top-rear of the upper fairing.
-Slide the entire assembly (upper left fairing, upper right fairing, headlight, and headlight lower cover) forward slightly.
-Reach behind the headlight, grasp the plastic connector, and pull it off the headlight.
-Disconnect the turn signal leads, label apporpriately with masking tape (left, right, color, etc.).
-Standing at the front of the bike, lift the entire assembly towards the front, and off the bike. Do it slowly, and carefully. If it gets stuck on something, look at the point of restriction and move the assembly around to get past the obstacle.
-The headlight, turn signals, upper left fairing, upper right fairing, and lower headlight cover should come off as one unit.
-Place somewhere safe. I found it was easiest to put it on carpet (facing up) and leaning against a wall.
2.) Remove the gas tank
Warning: gas is extrememly flammable. Work in a well ventilated area, at least 50 feet from any open flame. Do not smoke and wipe up spills immediately. SOME GAS WILL SPILL.
-Make sure the ignition switch is off.
-Place the bike on its centerstand.
-Remove the battery cover and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
-Find the fuel level sensor wire (underneath the tank, to the left side) and disconnect it.
-Turn the fuel tap to ON.
-With a rag underneath the fuel line (on the rear of the fuel valve..it's a amber-tinted hose), wiggle the fuel hose loose. If your bike is old like mine, it will need a good amount of wiggling. A FEW DRIPS WILL LEAK. Catch them with the rag. There should be no more gas flowing because the bike works by sucking gas via vacuum.
-Remove the vacuum hose at the front side of the fuel valve.
-Label each tubes respectively.
-Label and remove the drain tubes at the back of the fuel tank and plug them.
-Remove the two bolts that secure the rear of the fuel tank with a 10mm wrench.
-Pull the tank up and to the rear to remove it.
-Place in a safe area.
3.) Drain and remove the radiator
Note: On a few "C" model 600R's, there IS NO OIL COOLER. This is in contrary to what's discribed in the clymer.
Warning: Make sure the engine is cold, or has been sitting six hours.
-Remove the radiator cap from the front right, upper part of the bike.
-Place a wide pan, or use a funnel going into a stable container, under the left side of the bike.
-Slowly remove the drain screw, but BE READY. The radiator fluid is going to come out fast and squirt pretty far.
-Allow the fluid to drain completely.
-On the front, right side of the bike you will see a wire connector next to the radiator. Disconnect it, but be careful if you have an old bike. You don't want to break the wire out of the connector.
-From the fan, find a wire connector/harness going into another electrical connector. Disconnect it.
-Remove the hose connecting the radiator to the reservoir tank, catch any flowing radiator fluid.
-Remove the ECSC connector and route it through the top of the radiator.
-Disconnect the hose leads and route it through the top of the radiator.
-Disconnect the electrical connector connected to the box, that's on the plastic panel above the headers.
-Remove the two bolts holding the plastic panel above the headers. It should now come out. Remove that plastic panel above the headers.
-Loosen the radiator hose bands and slide them off the neck of the hoses. Carefully wiggle the hoses off the radiator, and watch for spilling fluids. There are only three hoses that connect to the radiator: one from the cap, one going to the water pump, and one to the reservoir.
-Remove the upper radiator mounting bolts with a 12mm wrench. There should only be two: one on each side.
-At this point in time, there shouldn't be anything attached to the radiator.
-Push the bottom of the radiator up out of the mount. Pull the whole radiator forward until the metal brackets (that were attached to the plastic panel) are clear of the frame of the bike. Now remove it.
3.) Remove the old exhaust
Now that the extraneous part is done, you do the actual exhaust swap next. Use penetrating fluid (liquid wrench, wd-40, etc.) if the nuts are frozen.
-You can use a closed ended 10mm wrench to remove the outer nuts bounded by the frame of the bike. The rest of the nuts can be removed with a 10mm socket with extension.
-Carefully remove all the nuts, don't round the heads of the nuts.
-Prop up the bottom of the exhaust.
-Remove the rear exhaust pipe mounting nuts that are attached to the muffler. It's a nut/bolt combination. They can be taken off with a 14mm wrench from each side.
-Lower the props, and take off the stock exhaust.
-Remove the gaskets inside the engine block.
4.) Installation of New Exhaust
-Place new exhaust gaskets in place.
-Put the headers into place, and rest them on the engine block. Slide up an exhaust flange, position two split collars into place, and slide the flange against the header pipe through the exhaust studs. Hand-tighten a pair of nuts on that exhaust pipe. Repeat for all other headers. Tighten them so that they're secure, but not completely.
-Position mufflers by slipping them onto the headers. Slide the hole/mounting tab into the rear peg bolt. Position the mufflers so they're aligned and securely mounted on the header pipes. Tighten the mufflers to the headers. Tighten the header nuts to the engine block.
-Tighten the H-pipe nut.
-Finally tighten the muffler bolts to the rear pegs.
-So in short: installation of the new exhaust is the reversal of the removal steps. It might help to position (but NOT secure) the new exhaust headers, mufflers, and H-pipe 1st, then tighten all the screws once everything's lined up. You can get away with using the old gaskets depending on the age/condition of them.
-Remember that the stock headers mount via this technique: the flanges go through the engine block studs, which push split collars (the metal pieces) against the header pipes, which push against the gasket, to the engine block.
-Reassemble everything up to and including the gas tank. Start the bike and check for leaks/jetting operation. If you have slip-ons, theoretically it should run fine as it did with the stock pipes, but jet if necessary. If you had a 4-1 exhaust, jetting is a required step. I've heard it's a good idea to let the engine go through a few heat cycles, then retighten the header nuts.
-Reassmble fairings and also check to ensure the mufflers aren't touching anything that might cause a fire. Make sure you have enough clearance on your heels, the centerstand, and the kick stand. Some exhaust don't allow the centerstand to be in place at all. The swing arm should also be inspected for correct operation.
Ok, that's enough. I'm starting to zone out
I'll edit this after I post and re-read it a few times.
Since the clymer wasn't specific to the bike, I figure I'll write this quick how-to on installing pipes to serve as a reference for future 600R owners.
Note: This only applies to zx600c series, or Ninja 600R's between 88-97. This does not apply to the zx-6, zx-6r, or zx-6rr. Installation of exhausts for zx600a/b series is well documented in the Clymer/Haynes manual.
You should have the following:
-replacement exhaust
-exhaust gaskets
-10, 12, 14mm sockets, extension and closed ended wrenches
-various thickness philips head screwdrivers
-various sized allan wrenches
1.) Remove the fairing
-Remove the six (6) lower fairing allan screws and lift the lower fairing by bringing it forward and out to one side. It's a little tricky, but if you angle it correctly, you can do it without scratching or dragging the plastic on the ground or against the bike.
-Remove the six (6) philips screws that secure the windscreen to the upper fairing and remove the windscreen. Excessive force should not be necessary.
-Using the key to twist to unlock the hook on the rear left side, remove the seat straight off the bike.
-Remove the screws on the rear of the side panels
-Pull the vinyl panels/kneepads sideways, off the bike. They are secured by a single tab on the upper fairing. If you're afraid of breaking any plastic, you can reach your finger behind the vinyl panel/kneepad and push on the tab. It'll pop right out. Avoid excessive force as the plastic mounting tabs are easy to break.
-Remove the screws at the bottom of the upper fairing.
-After pulling up on the rubber boot, remove JUST THE LOWER allan bolts from the mirrors. It is not necessary to remove the upper bolts; they screw into the fairing.
-Remove the screws at the top-rear of the upper fairing.
-Slide the entire assembly (upper left fairing, upper right fairing, headlight, and headlight lower cover) forward slightly.
-Reach behind the headlight, grasp the plastic connector, and pull it off the headlight.
-Disconnect the turn signal leads, label apporpriately with masking tape (left, right, color, etc.).
-Standing at the front of the bike, lift the entire assembly towards the front, and off the bike. Do it slowly, and carefully. If it gets stuck on something, look at the point of restriction and move the assembly around to get past the obstacle.
-The headlight, turn signals, upper left fairing, upper right fairing, and lower headlight cover should come off as one unit.
-Place somewhere safe. I found it was easiest to put it on carpet (facing up) and leaning against a wall.
2.) Remove the gas tank
Warning: gas is extrememly flammable. Work in a well ventilated area, at least 50 feet from any open flame. Do not smoke and wipe up spills immediately. SOME GAS WILL SPILL.
-Make sure the ignition switch is off.
-Place the bike on its centerstand.
-Remove the battery cover and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
-Find the fuel level sensor wire (underneath the tank, to the left side) and disconnect it.
-Turn the fuel tap to ON.
-With a rag underneath the fuel line (on the rear of the fuel valve..it's a amber-tinted hose), wiggle the fuel hose loose. If your bike is old like mine, it will need a good amount of wiggling. A FEW DRIPS WILL LEAK. Catch them with the rag. There should be no more gas flowing because the bike works by sucking gas via vacuum.
-Remove the vacuum hose at the front side of the fuel valve.
-Label each tubes respectively.
-Label and remove the drain tubes at the back of the fuel tank and plug them.
-Remove the two bolts that secure the rear of the fuel tank with a 10mm wrench.
-Pull the tank up and to the rear to remove it.
-Place in a safe area.
3.) Drain and remove the radiator
Note: On a few "C" model 600R's, there IS NO OIL COOLER. This is in contrary to what's discribed in the clymer.
Warning: Make sure the engine is cold, or has been sitting six hours.
-Remove the radiator cap from the front right, upper part of the bike.
-Place a wide pan, or use a funnel going into a stable container, under the left side of the bike.
-Slowly remove the drain screw, but BE READY. The radiator fluid is going to come out fast and squirt pretty far.
-Allow the fluid to drain completely.
-On the front, right side of the bike you will see a wire connector next to the radiator. Disconnect it, but be careful if you have an old bike. You don't want to break the wire out of the connector.
-From the fan, find a wire connector/harness going into another electrical connector. Disconnect it.
-Remove the hose connecting the radiator to the reservoir tank, catch any flowing radiator fluid.
-Remove the ECSC connector and route it through the top of the radiator.
-Disconnect the hose leads and route it through the top of the radiator.
-Disconnect the electrical connector connected to the box, that's on the plastic panel above the headers.
-Remove the two bolts holding the plastic panel above the headers. It should now come out. Remove that plastic panel above the headers.
-Loosen the radiator hose bands and slide them off the neck of the hoses. Carefully wiggle the hoses off the radiator, and watch for spilling fluids. There are only three hoses that connect to the radiator: one from the cap, one going to the water pump, and one to the reservoir.
-Remove the upper radiator mounting bolts with a 12mm wrench. There should only be two: one on each side.
-At this point in time, there shouldn't be anything attached to the radiator.
-Push the bottom of the radiator up out of the mount. Pull the whole radiator forward until the metal brackets (that were attached to the plastic panel) are clear of the frame of the bike. Now remove it.
3.) Remove the old exhaust
Now that the extraneous part is done, you do the actual exhaust swap next. Use penetrating fluid (liquid wrench, wd-40, etc.) if the nuts are frozen.
-You can use a closed ended 10mm wrench to remove the outer nuts bounded by the frame of the bike. The rest of the nuts can be removed with a 10mm socket with extension.
-Carefully remove all the nuts, don't round the heads of the nuts.
-Prop up the bottom of the exhaust.
-Remove the rear exhaust pipe mounting nuts that are attached to the muffler. It's a nut/bolt combination. They can be taken off with a 14mm wrench from each side.
-Lower the props, and take off the stock exhaust.
-Remove the gaskets inside the engine block.
4.) Installation of New Exhaust
-Place new exhaust gaskets in place.
-Put the headers into place, and rest them on the engine block. Slide up an exhaust flange, position two split collars into place, and slide the flange against the header pipe through the exhaust studs. Hand-tighten a pair of nuts on that exhaust pipe. Repeat for all other headers. Tighten them so that they're secure, but not completely.
-Position mufflers by slipping them onto the headers. Slide the hole/mounting tab into the rear peg bolt. Position the mufflers so they're aligned and securely mounted on the header pipes. Tighten the mufflers to the headers. Tighten the header nuts to the engine block.
-Tighten the H-pipe nut.
-Finally tighten the muffler bolts to the rear pegs.
-So in short: installation of the new exhaust is the reversal of the removal steps. It might help to position (but NOT secure) the new exhaust headers, mufflers, and H-pipe 1st, then tighten all the screws once everything's lined up. You can get away with using the old gaskets depending on the age/condition of them.
-Remember that the stock headers mount via this technique: the flanges go through the engine block studs, which push split collars (the metal pieces) against the header pipes, which push against the gasket, to the engine block.
-Reassemble everything up to and including the gas tank. Start the bike and check for leaks/jetting operation. If you have slip-ons, theoretically it should run fine as it did with the stock pipes, but jet if necessary. If you had a 4-1 exhaust, jetting is a required step. I've heard it's a good idea to let the engine go through a few heat cycles, then retighten the header nuts.
-Reassmble fairings and also check to ensure the mufflers aren't touching anything that might cause a fire. Make sure you have enough clearance on your heels, the centerstand, and the kick stand. Some exhaust don't allow the centerstand to be in place at all. The swing arm should also be inspected for correct operation.
Ok, that's enough. I'm starting to zone out
I'll edit this after I post and re-read it a few times.
Left Side Engine Generator Cover Install !HOW-TO! - How-Tos and FAQs @ KawiForums.com
http://kawiforums.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15430
Well This Subject Seems to come up Often, And with out Having a Manual, I was Easly able to Change My Left Side Engine Cover, In which I replaced it with a WoodCraft unit. The Reason for the Install was Due to a Crash I had in which the Factory Cover Cracked and Leaked oil, I had tried to have it Fixed Via Welding, But it would not hold!
First, Take the Side faring off, And Loosen all the Bolts for the Genarator Cover....
Now Remove the cover (keep in mind that the Genrator is Magnetic and is hard to pull apart) Also you want to remove the 4 Hex (size T30) and the 2 Bolts holding the Wire down...
Once the Old cover is Off, Now Install the new cover, Make sure to Use Loctite on the Genarator Bolts, and also To use a new gasket and Add some Sealent around the wires....
This is what the Finished Product should look like....
Hope this Helps out, I Think anyone should be able to complete this with no Worries!
All Forums » Two Wheeled Discussion » How-Tos and FAQs
Left Side Engine Generator Cover Install !HOW-TO!
Well This Subject Seems to come up Often, And with out Having a Manual, I was Easly able to Change My Left Side Engine Cover, In which I replaced it with a WoodCraft unit. The Reason for the Install was Due to a Crash I had in which the Factory Cover Cracked and Leaked oil, I had tried to have it Fixed Via Welding, But it would not hold!
First, Take the Side faring off, And Loosen all the Bolts for the Genarator Cover....
Now Remove the cover (keep in mind that the Genrator is Magnetic and is hard to pull apart) Also you want to remove the 4 Hex (size T30) and the 2 Bolts holding the Wire down...
Once the Old cover is Off, Now Install the new cover, Make sure to Use Loctite on the Genarator Bolts, and also To use a new gasket and Add some Sealent around the wires....
This is what the Finished Product should look like....
Hope this Helps out, I Think anyone should be able to complete this with no Worries!
Gatineau
Qu�bec
2001 ZX-6R
Member# 4,600
Joined: Apr 04
Posts: 371
Qu�bec
2001 ZX-6R
Member# 4,600
Joined: Apr 04
Posts: 371
Oceanside
California
1999 ZX-6R
Member# 18,011
Joined: Dec 05
Posts: 28
California
1999 ZX-6R
Member# 18,011
Joined: Dec 05
Posts: 28
All Forums » Two Wheeled Discussion » How-Tos and FAQs Left Side Engine Generator Cover Install !HOW-TO!Clutch Assembly Tips - How-Tos and FAQs @ KawiForums.com
http://kawiforums.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=49622
Originally posted by: wzfst1ce
This is probably not new to most of you, but might help the newer group of riders who work on their own bikes. This is aimed more toward the beginner track-day/racer wondering why h/er clutch doesn't last as long as h/er competition?
This is pretty much universal as far as multi-clutch pack assembly goes. This post is a generic clutch/friction assembly procedure, and does no entail all aspects of troubleshooting clutch drag, failures, lubrication assembly, torque specs, hard part inspections, etc.
Basically, this article points out "two special steps" for proper clutch assembly, and one pre-inspect before assembly.
Steel Plates:
When the manufacturer makes a steel plate from a raw sheet of metal, they stamp out thousands of these parts. You will notice a round edge, and a flat cut edge viewing the steel plate. One side you can easily cut yourself with. This is the part (cut edge) you want to look for. Some steel plates will have the special riveted (chatter) plate placed somewhere in the middle, or a "hop" plate assembly placed somewhere in the clutch pack. Remember to note the cut edge of this plate assembly as well.
The steels have what's known as "Memory". Because of the stamping, the curve of the metal will be in one direction. To illustrate this, place your palms against each other and touch your fingers as if you were praying to your chosen Deity. Now press your fingers against each other. Notice how each finger fights the other. Now place the palm of your hand over the back of your hand. Press you fingers over your other fingers. Notice how they move in the same direction and not fight each other? This is the same principal for the steel frictions. PLACE ALL STEELS IN ONE DIRECTION. This is the "first" of two keys to watch out for when working with the clutch assembly.
If you place the steel's cut-edge all in the same direction, they will not fight each other. In other words, one cut edge will not be facing the other against a friction, and the steel plate on the other side (of the friction) will not have to cause extra drag on the fiber plates as the pack is released. This is one of the reasons it is hard to find neutral. You have an ever so slight clutch drag of the whole clutch assembly. The touching load is (trying to) move the bike forward when you have the clutch lever pulled in all the way. It is somewhat of an exaggeration, but please understand the point...this is dragging the clutch pack in a subtle way.
Indiscriminately installing the clutches 'in any ol' direction', will give poor performance to the whole clutch pack assembly.
This is not the main reason, but a contributing reason why clutches do not last long if installed incorrectly. There is a percentage loss to compress the clutch assembly when a steel or friction is facing in the opposite direction... and not lined up in it's "Memory" facing order of assembly. The loss is slight, but insufficient clamping, or holding is still compromised. The steel in the wrong direction is forming a gap against the friction side of the other steel in the correct direction. To illustrate this...touch your finger tips again, and look at the gap between your palms. This is somewhat of a poor illustration on my part, but it is theory none the less... to show you how a steel plate (gap) reacts when placed opposite each other, as opposed to both in the same direction.
Friction Plates:
The single style spiral friction plate (when used) will be obvious as to their direction of assembly. This is the centrifugal pad cut direction, to fling off the oil between steel and frictions. Follow the friction "spiral pad cuts" for correct direction. Other frictions will have to be inspected for their stampings if the pad material is in the "square type design cuts". The aluminum plates (direction) might be harder to recognize. There are a few visuals to look for. Note the directional spiral plate and match the (metal) stamping this way. Match all other frictions with the spiral cut plate. Some aluminum plates will have a printed ink stamping on one side of it. Use this (sometimes) as your guide. Some aluminum frictions will have a cut edge to them (obvious direction....correct?). As long as the uniformity is consistent and in one direction, you have a better chance that the frictions will act in a consistent manor, than just throwing the friction in the (clutch outer) housing in any direction. Just look for consistency with each friction, and place them all in the same direction with the steels.
Steel/Friction Plate Pre-Inspection Assembly:
If you feel that all the steels and frictions are lined up together and you still find there is drag or it's hard to find neutral, then most likely there is one or two warped steels or frictions causing the problem. Of course you can go by the book, place each steel on a flat surface and check warpage with a feeler gage. This is one way of making sure you find a faulty steel plate. For this inspection, line up all the steels in it's memory direction (cuts all facing in one direction) and hold them all (on top of each other) in your hand in a stacked (static) formation. You simply turn the steels (all at once) and inspect for a gap between each other. If you find one, remove it. Then rotate the stack again to look for all the steels to lay flat on each other without any gaps between them. You will shuffle the stack repeatedly and make sure that a steel that was on the bottom, is now somewhere in the middle, as well as the top steel placed at a different levels.... and again, rotate the whole pack, looking for gaps. Once you have done this (card shuffle) to just about every steel/friction plate being placed at all location levels, you can then determine if they will be reusable. Discard those that cause a gap. Finally, check for the steel and friction (thickness) "serviceable limit" measurements, and are within specs.
Clutch Assembly Placement:
It is critical that the frictions & steels directions are facing the Pressure Plate. Let's say you have another Metric bike that has the pressure plate being the last installed part into the clutch outer cage. Then if that is the case, all (cut) friction and steel plates... "FACE THE PRESSURE PLATE." This is the "second" key point to proper clutch assembly.
If the pressure plate is the first part (say for example a Honda CBX) to be installed inside the clutch outer, then all cut edges face the pressure plate. So no matter what design you have, always face the... "steel/friction cut edges toward the pressure plate." As stated above, spiral style pads are placed in clutch assembly rotation. In other words, if the clutch spins counter-clockwise, then the spiral pads facing you is in the forward slash (/) position. Note how the spiral friction would rotate to fling the oil outside of it's groove. If the clutch pack rotates clockwise, then reverse the spiral pointing is in the back-slash (\) position.
Conclusion:
Anyone who installed their clutch pack recently, and indiscriminately installed the steels without this basic installation process, my want to reevaluate the assembly. You may find you still have a hard time finding neutral after you install all new parts.
The way to install the steels (and frictions) described above, will help the longevity to the clutch pack, plus give you some of the smoothest shifts, as if the bike was as new as the day you bought it. Finding neutral will also be one of the chief benefits to this.
Remember to inspect the steels/frictions for warpage. No matter how well you followed directions and execution, one warped steel/friction will not "cut' it.
Originally posted by: wzfst1ce
This is probably not new to most of you, but might help the newer group of riders who work on their own bikes. This is aimed more toward the beginner track-day/racer wondering why h/er clutch doesn't last as long as h/er competition?
This is pretty much universal as far as multi-clutch pack assembly goes. This post is a generic clutch/friction assembly procedure, and does no entail all aspects of troubleshooting clutch drag, failures, lubrication assembly, torque specs, hard part inspections, etc.
Basically, this article points out "two special steps" for proper clutch assembly, and one pre-inspect before assembly.
Steel Plates:
When the manufacturer makes a steel plate from a raw sheet of metal, they stamp out thousands of these parts. You will notice a round edge, and a flat cut edge viewing the steel plate. One side you can easily cut yourself with. This is the part (cut edge) you want to look for. Some steel plates will have the special riveted (chatter) plate placed somewhere in the middle, or a "hop" plate assembly placed somewhere in the clutch pack. Remember to note the cut edge of this plate assembly as well.
The steels have what's known as "Memory". Because of the stamping, the curve of the metal will be in one direction. To illustrate this, place your palms against each other and touch your fingers as if you were praying to your chosen Deity. Now press your fingers against each other. Notice how each finger fights the other. Now place the palm of your hand over the back of your hand. Press you fingers over your other fingers. Notice how they move in the same direction and not fight each other? This is the same principal for the steel frictions. PLACE ALL STEELS IN ONE DIRECTION. This is the "first" of two keys to watch out for when working with the clutch assembly.
If you place the steel's cut-edge all in the same direction, they will not fight each other. In other words, one cut edge will not be facing the other against a friction, and the steel plate on the other side (of the friction) will not have to cause extra drag on the fiber plates as the pack is released. This is one of the reasons it is hard to find neutral. You have an ever so slight clutch drag of the whole clutch assembly. The touching load is (trying to) move the bike forward when you have the clutch lever pulled in all the way. It is somewhat of an exaggeration, but please understand the point...this is dragging the clutch pack in a subtle way.
Indiscriminately installing the clutches 'in any ol' direction', will give poor performance to the whole clutch pack assembly.
This is not the main reason, but a contributing reason why clutches do not last long if installed incorrectly. There is a percentage loss to compress the clutch assembly when a steel or friction is facing in the opposite direction... and not lined up in it's "Memory" facing order of assembly. The loss is slight, but insufficient clamping, or holding is still compromised. The steel in the wrong direction is forming a gap against the friction side of the other steel in the correct direction. To illustrate this...touch your finger tips again, and look at the gap between your palms. This is somewhat of a poor illustration on my part, but it is theory none the less... to show you how a steel plate (gap) reacts when placed opposite each other, as opposed to both in the same direction.
Friction Plates:
The single style spiral friction plate (when used) will be obvious as to their direction of assembly. This is the centrifugal pad cut direction, to fling off the oil between steel and frictions. Follow the friction "spiral pad cuts" for correct direction. Other frictions will have to be inspected for their stampings if the pad material is in the "square type design cuts". The aluminum plates (direction) might be harder to recognize. There are a few visuals to look for. Note the directional spiral plate and match the (metal) stamping this way. Match all other frictions with the spiral cut plate. Some aluminum plates will have a printed ink stamping on one side of it. Use this (sometimes) as your guide. Some aluminum frictions will have a cut edge to them (obvious direction....correct?). As long as the uniformity is consistent and in one direction, you have a better chance that the frictions will act in a consistent manor, than just throwing the friction in the (clutch outer) housing in any direction. Just look for consistency with each friction, and place them all in the same direction with the steels.
Steel/Friction Plate Pre-Inspection Assembly:
If you feel that all the steels and frictions are lined up together and you still find there is drag or it's hard to find neutral, then most likely there is one or two warped steels or frictions causing the problem. Of course you can go by the book, place each steel on a flat surface and check warpage with a feeler gage. This is one way of making sure you find a faulty steel plate. For this inspection, line up all the steels in it's memory direction (cuts all facing in one direction) and hold them all (on top of each other) in your hand in a stacked (static) formation. You simply turn the steels (all at once) and inspect for a gap between each other. If you find one, remove it. Then rotate the stack again to look for all the steels to lay flat on each other without any gaps between them. You will shuffle the stack repeatedly and make sure that a steel that was on the bottom, is now somewhere in the middle, as well as the top steel placed at a different levels.... and again, rotate the whole pack, looking for gaps. Once you have done this (card shuffle) to just about every steel/friction plate being placed at all location levels, you can then determine if they will be reusable. Discard those that cause a gap. Finally, check for the steel and friction (thickness) "serviceable limit" measurements, and are within specs.
Clutch Assembly Placement:
It is critical that the frictions & steels directions are facing the Pressure Plate. Let's say you have another Metric bike that has the pressure plate being the last installed part into the clutch outer cage. Then if that is the case, all (cut) friction and steel plates... "FACE THE PRESSURE PLATE." This is the "second" key point to proper clutch assembly.
If the pressure plate is the first part (say for example a Honda CBX) to be installed inside the clutch outer, then all cut edges face the pressure plate. So no matter what design you have, always face the... "steel/friction cut edges toward the pressure plate." As stated above, spiral style pads are placed in clutch assembly rotation. In other words, if the clutch spins counter-clockwise, then the spiral pads facing you is in the forward slash (/) position. Note how the spiral friction would rotate to fling the oil outside of it's groove. If the clutch pack rotates clockwise, then reverse the spiral pointing is in the back-slash (\) position.
Conclusion:
Anyone who installed their clutch pack recently, and indiscriminately installed the steels without this basic installation process, my want to reevaluate the assembly. You may find you still have a hard time finding neutral after you install all new parts.
The way to install the steels (and frictions) described above, will help the longevity to the clutch pack, plus give you some of the smoothest shifts, as if the bike was as new as the day you bought it. Finding neutral will also be one of the chief benefits to this.
Remember to inspect the steels/frictions for warpage. No matter how well you followed directions and execution, one warped steel/friction will not "cut' it.
A Few Motorcycle Maintenance Tricks - How-Tos and FAQs @ KawiForums.com
http://kawiforums.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=49827
Originally posted by: wzfst1ce
Tricks Universal:
1. Hammer Phillips screw heads back in shape.
2. Find fork axle and handle bar caps with divots and arrows.
3. Setting fork and handle bar caps without divots and arrows for vibration free feel.
4. Assemble front end cap tightening sequence.
5.Remove head with cotton twine to save cooling fins from damage.
6. Remove carb limiter caps.
7. Never burn out another main fuse to find a short.
(1).Take a flat round punch that is equal to the diameter of the Phillips screw head, and pound the cross hatch back into shape. Place the correct numbered Phillips bit in the cross hatch and hammer to renew the cross. This will give the 'bite' back around the Phillips bit so it can be removed without drilling. It will both shock the threads, and save the screw for reuse.
(2). The half caps on Honda front fork and handle bars are stepped. Place the flat sides down, and look for the "gap" on the other end of the holding cap. The side (with more material) faces forward. This step design is how the bars and axles are clamped. You will find a punch mark on top of the cap or an arrow on the side of the half cap for easy recognition, and proper direction. Place these (divots/arrows) "forward on assembly." Torque the forward (divot/arrow) side first. Tighten the rear last.
(3). If you have a bike other than a Honda, some manufacturers use "even sided" half caps. Use a multi bladed feeler gauge, and clamp down these caps with precision evenness. Vibration at the axle and handle bars will be highly eliminated.
(4). A.Tighten front axle.
B.Tighten right side pinch bolt caps.
C. Push down on front suspension 2/3 times.
D. Tighten left pinch bolt caps on static return.
(5). If you have a stubborn head that won't come off, you can stuff cotton twine inside the cylinder chamber through the spark plug hole. Lower the piston, and keep stuffing twine inside. You will have to find TDC compression first, or you will bend an open valve(s) on a TDC stroke that is not on the compression stroke. Simply turn the crank, and the piston will compress the rope and crack the seal on the gasket. Remove the cotton rope and pack the other far cylinder on TDC compression. Break the gasket and theoretically, the head should come off without banging off a bunch of cooling fins. If the cylinder is not bolted down, consider this trick rendered useless. NOTE: If you find heavy resistance, then this may cause the rod to bend. Work accordingly.
(6). Use a soldering gun tip to melt the glue on the pilot screw limiter caps. They will drop off or can be carefully pulled off.
(7). Take two wires and two alligator clips, then connect them to a two pronged turn signal relay. This is now your fuse that will never burn out. Connect the alligator clips to each side of the fuse clip holders. Find the short until the relay stops clicking.
Bearing Packer:
Take a baggie, fill a corner with bearing grease. Drop bearing in corner with grease. Remove the air out of the bag by squeezing the bearing into the grease. Then spin the bag by twisting grease back down onto the bearing. Do not unwind the twist.
Begin squeezing the grease into the bearing until you no longer hear any air popping out of the bearing. Untwist the bag and pull out bearing.
Squeeze air out of the bag, and begin pushing the excess grease to the corner of the bag. Twist the bag again closed. Push grease as you pack the corner into a pastry decorating bag filler. Cut a small corner of the baggie. Squeeze grease to pack/lube selected areas.
Very close type measurements. Make two measuring tools out of welding rods.
1. Rear Wheel Alignment Tool.
A. Bend one end to a short "L" configuration. Slide on the other end, a small rubber hose (cut from a carb drain bowl) and notch or paint the center of the rubber piece.
B. Place the "L" in the center of the swing arm bolt. Drill a shallow hole in both ends of the swing arm bolt, if you can do it accurately.
C. Adjust chain slack. Then set "L" in shallow hole, then slide rubber (center mark) to the rear wheel axle. Do not move or bump the rubber tube. Place the rod on the other side of the swing and axle bolt centers, and turn adjuster screw in or out to match distance of the rubber's center.
D. Ignore (the offset) production cast and stamped markings on the swing arm and adjuster tangs. Tighten axle and recheck alignment. Theoretically, the rear axle is square to the swing arm pivot.
2. Fork Fluid Leveling Tool.
A. Bend one end of the welding rod into a short "U" shape. This will act as a static "hook" that lets the welding rod to drop and stop inside the fork tube.
B. Paint section of welding rod with white paint. When dry, mark incremental levels with a darker color. Other option is to "V" file notches in a section of the rod.
C. Pour factory recommended amount of fork fluid in one fork. Anti-dive type fork(s) my vary with amounts, and may not work well using this tool. Test to find out.
D. Measure fluid without spring installed. Extend or compress fork tubes. Length of welding rod will vary...your choice. Now simply match the fork fluid level of the first fork for equal fluid level against the second fork.
Small Hardware:
Frustrations abound when working with miniature ignition, instrument, or handle bar switch screws. They keep falling off the screwdriver’s tip right at the worst moment. Try this very old trick.
Cure for this is to take a magnet, and stroke down the shaft of the screwdriver. Do not scrub the shaft with the magnet, but start from the handle and end at the tip. Just glide it right off, and the electrons will (- + - + - + - + -) line right up.
What this does is lightly “Magnetize” the handle shaft. Place the screw on the blade tip and it should stay in place. Now you have at least a fighting chance to start the screw threads a few turns, rather than it falling off the blade, and then spend time searching for it somewhere hidden on the bike, or floor.
Demagnetize the screwdriver blade by tapping the blade with a few sharp blows to scatter the electrons back in the metal.
Finding TDC:
You really don't need to know how a 4-stroke engine works to work on your bike. About the only thing you want to remember is how to find TDC to set the cam timing or adjust valves.
Take a pair of chop sticks home the next time you go out to eat. A chop stick does less damage than a screwdriver or metal pointer/scribe.
Remove the spark plug(s) and be ready to place the stick down the plug hole.
Simply watch the intake valve go down. When it starts to come back up, carefully set the chop stick vertical (into the hole and let it move up through your fingers. Make sure it does not kink against the threads or be cocked where it will be crushed in the cylinder. The cranking can move faster than you can hold the stick straight.
Once the piston stops moving the chop stick, basically, you are at TDC. If it begins to fall back down, you went to far.
Engine Knocking Trick: Say you can hear a knocking noise coming from the engine? You want to eliminate as many variables before you tear the engine down.
Remove the spark plug(s) and find TDC as stated above. Remember when you went past TDC and felt the stick go down? This is where you want to be. Move the piston back down (after TDC) and then stop.
Some engine knocks can be caused by a burnt piston (smell that hole/read the s/plug), to a bad small end bearing, to a big end bearing about to weld itself onto the crank. The noise you want to chase, is one of these stated above.
Take the chop stick and press down on the piston. You want to make this subtle, because the only thing that is holding the piston up, are the rings. See, when you turned the crank, you pulled the con rod to move the piston down, the rings prevent the piston from falling onto the rod/crank. So when you push the chop stick on top of the piston, and it moves down (without moving the crank) you found your knock.
As long as you don't reach BDC (bottom)... you can recheck piston movement a few more times. No movement is a good sign.
Liquid Preservation:
Ever bump over a can of oil, polish, two-stroke mix, and make the Exxon Valdez almost look like an eye drop?
One trick, is to take a pointed metal scribe, and make a simple hole-- in the can or tube-- as big as the shaft of the scribe. Make the vent hole even smaller if need be.
Sealed brake fluid is great for this application. Do not pull the seal off. Make a hole instead. Now that most fluids come in plastic bottles, you treat it now like a bottle of catsup....
Speaking about catsup cap designs....they now have a 'diaphragm' incorporated in the squeeze hole. Though you have to regulate the finger pressure to over-ride the diaphragm, the cap-- or whole container-- would work great for distilled water fills, precision fork oil level top-off, and other creative ideas for fluids. The diaphragm would most likely hold back the fluid if tipped over.
Back to the basic idea.... Having the smallest hole possible in a liquid container, will spill less fluid if the bottle/can does happen to accidentally tip over......Less clean-up = saved product content.
Clutch Plate Road Repair:
Stranded on the road because your engine is moving faster than the bike itself? Burned the clutch so bad, the bike is going nowhere... Now what? If you have tools, you can pop out a steel plate, warp it at a few places and reinstall it in the center of the pack. If the clutch still slips, bend another steel, and then stagger both that will split the plates in 1/3rd increments. This should load enough plates to lock up the clutch to get it home.
One thing though. You'll need to step up the dexterity factor. Better find neutral before you come to a stop, and maybe fall over. Better roll the bike forward before placing the bike in gear, and possibility stalling the engine at the same time. We are talking a sprint car transmission here. It's either in gear, or it ain't!
Stay off the bike, and pay the tow bill if you find this above and beyond your current skills. Disclaimer over.
Originally posted by: wzfst1ce
Tricks Universal:
1. Hammer Phillips screw heads back in shape.
2. Find fork axle and handle bar caps with divots and arrows.
3. Setting fork and handle bar caps without divots and arrows for vibration free feel.
4. Assemble front end cap tightening sequence.
5.Remove head with cotton twine to save cooling fins from damage.
6. Remove carb limiter caps.
7. Never burn out another main fuse to find a short.
(1).Take a flat round punch that is equal to the diameter of the Phillips screw head, and pound the cross hatch back into shape. Place the correct numbered Phillips bit in the cross hatch and hammer to renew the cross. This will give the 'bite' back around the Phillips bit so it can be removed without drilling. It will both shock the threads, and save the screw for reuse.
(2). The half caps on Honda front fork and handle bars are stepped. Place the flat sides down, and look for the "gap" on the other end of the holding cap. The side (with more material) faces forward. This step design is how the bars and axles are clamped. You will find a punch mark on top of the cap or an arrow on the side of the half cap for easy recognition, and proper direction. Place these (divots/arrows) "forward on assembly." Torque the forward (divot/arrow) side first. Tighten the rear last.
(3). If you have a bike other than a Honda, some manufacturers use "even sided" half caps. Use a multi bladed feeler gauge, and clamp down these caps with precision evenness. Vibration at the axle and handle bars will be highly eliminated.
(4). A.Tighten front axle.
B.Tighten right side pinch bolt caps.
C. Push down on front suspension 2/3 times.
D. Tighten left pinch bolt caps on static return.
(5). If you have a stubborn head that won't come off, you can stuff cotton twine inside the cylinder chamber through the spark plug hole. Lower the piston, and keep stuffing twine inside. You will have to find TDC compression first, or you will bend an open valve(s) on a TDC stroke that is not on the compression stroke. Simply turn the crank, and the piston will compress the rope and crack the seal on the gasket. Remove the cotton rope and pack the other far cylinder on TDC compression. Break the gasket and theoretically, the head should come off without banging off a bunch of cooling fins. If the cylinder is not bolted down, consider this trick rendered useless. NOTE: If you find heavy resistance, then this may cause the rod to bend. Work accordingly.
(6). Use a soldering gun tip to melt the glue on the pilot screw limiter caps. They will drop off or can be carefully pulled off.
(7). Take two wires and two alligator clips, then connect them to a two pronged turn signal relay. This is now your fuse that will never burn out. Connect the alligator clips to each side of the fuse clip holders. Find the short until the relay stops clicking.
Bearing Packer:
Take a baggie, fill a corner with bearing grease. Drop bearing in corner with grease. Remove the air out of the bag by squeezing the bearing into the grease. Then spin the bag by twisting grease back down onto the bearing. Do not unwind the twist.
Begin squeezing the grease into the bearing until you no longer hear any air popping out of the bearing. Untwist the bag and pull out bearing.
Squeeze air out of the bag, and begin pushing the excess grease to the corner of the bag. Twist the bag again closed. Push grease as you pack the corner into a pastry decorating bag filler. Cut a small corner of the baggie. Squeeze grease to pack/lube selected areas.
Very close type measurements. Make two measuring tools out of welding rods.
1. Rear Wheel Alignment Tool.
A. Bend one end to a short "L" configuration. Slide on the other end, a small rubber hose (cut from a carb drain bowl) and notch or paint the center of the rubber piece.
B. Place the "L" in the center of the swing arm bolt. Drill a shallow hole in both ends of the swing arm bolt, if you can do it accurately.
C. Adjust chain slack. Then set "L" in shallow hole, then slide rubber (center mark) to the rear wheel axle. Do not move or bump the rubber tube. Place the rod on the other side of the swing and axle bolt centers, and turn adjuster screw in or out to match distance of the rubber's center.
D. Ignore (the offset) production cast and stamped markings on the swing arm and adjuster tangs. Tighten axle and recheck alignment. Theoretically, the rear axle is square to the swing arm pivot.
2. Fork Fluid Leveling Tool.
A. Bend one end of the welding rod into a short "U" shape. This will act as a static "hook" that lets the welding rod to drop and stop inside the fork tube.
B. Paint section of welding rod with white paint. When dry, mark incremental levels with a darker color. Other option is to "V" file notches in a section of the rod.
C. Pour factory recommended amount of fork fluid in one fork. Anti-dive type fork(s) my vary with amounts, and may not work well using this tool. Test to find out.
D. Measure fluid without spring installed. Extend or compress fork tubes. Length of welding rod will vary...your choice. Now simply match the fork fluid level of the first fork for equal fluid level against the second fork.
Small Hardware:
Frustrations abound when working with miniature ignition, instrument, or handle bar switch screws. They keep falling off the screwdriver’s tip right at the worst moment. Try this very old trick.
Cure for this is to take a magnet, and stroke down the shaft of the screwdriver. Do not scrub the shaft with the magnet, but start from the handle and end at the tip. Just glide it right off, and the electrons will (- + - + - + - + -) line right up.
What this does is lightly “Magnetize” the handle shaft. Place the screw on the blade tip and it should stay in place. Now you have at least a fighting chance to start the screw threads a few turns, rather than it falling off the blade, and then spend time searching for it somewhere hidden on the bike, or floor.
Demagnetize the screwdriver blade by tapping the blade with a few sharp blows to scatter the electrons back in the metal.
Finding TDC:
You really don't need to know how a 4-stroke engine works to work on your bike. About the only thing you want to remember is how to find TDC to set the cam timing or adjust valves.
Take a pair of chop sticks home the next time you go out to eat. A chop stick does less damage than a screwdriver or metal pointer/scribe.
Remove the spark plug(s) and be ready to place the stick down the plug hole.
Simply watch the intake valve go down. When it starts to come back up, carefully set the chop stick vertical (into the hole and let it move up through your fingers. Make sure it does not kink against the threads or be cocked where it will be crushed in the cylinder. The cranking can move faster than you can hold the stick straight.
Once the piston stops moving the chop stick, basically, you are at TDC. If it begins to fall back down, you went to far.
Engine Knocking Trick: Say you can hear a knocking noise coming from the engine? You want to eliminate as many variables before you tear the engine down.
Remove the spark plug(s) and find TDC as stated above. Remember when you went past TDC and felt the stick go down? This is where you want to be. Move the piston back down (after TDC) and then stop.
Some engine knocks can be caused by a burnt piston (smell that hole/read the s/plug), to a bad small end bearing, to a big end bearing about to weld itself onto the crank. The noise you want to chase, is one of these stated above.
Take the chop stick and press down on the piston. You want to make this subtle, because the only thing that is holding the piston up, are the rings. See, when you turned the crank, you pulled the con rod to move the piston down, the rings prevent the piston from falling onto the rod/crank. So when you push the chop stick on top of the piston, and it moves down (without moving the crank) you found your knock.
As long as you don't reach BDC (bottom)... you can recheck piston movement a few more times. No movement is a good sign.
Liquid Preservation:
Ever bump over a can of oil, polish, two-stroke mix, and make the Exxon Valdez almost look like an eye drop?
One trick, is to take a pointed metal scribe, and make a simple hole-- in the can or tube-- as big as the shaft of the scribe. Make the vent hole even smaller if need be.
Sealed brake fluid is great for this application. Do not pull the seal off. Make a hole instead. Now that most fluids come in plastic bottles, you treat it now like a bottle of catsup....
Speaking about catsup cap designs....they now have a 'diaphragm' incorporated in the squeeze hole. Though you have to regulate the finger pressure to over-ride the diaphragm, the cap-- or whole container-- would work great for distilled water fills, precision fork oil level top-off, and other creative ideas for fluids. The diaphragm would most likely hold back the fluid if tipped over.
Back to the basic idea.... Having the smallest hole possible in a liquid container, will spill less fluid if the bottle/can does happen to accidentally tip over......Less clean-up = saved product content.
Clutch Plate Road Repair:
Stranded on the road because your engine is moving faster than the bike itself? Burned the clutch so bad, the bike is going nowhere... Now what? If you have tools, you can pop out a steel plate, warp it at a few places and reinstall it in the center of the pack. If the clutch still slips, bend another steel, and then stagger both that will split the plates in 1/3rd increments. This should load enough plates to lock up the clutch to get it home.
One thing though. You'll need to step up the dexterity factor. Better find neutral before you come to a stop, and maybe fall over. Better roll the bike forward before placing the bike in gear, and possibility stalling the engine at the same time. We are talking a sprint car transmission here. It's either in gear, or it ain't!
Stay off the bike, and pay the tow bill if you find this above and beyond your current skills. Disclaimer over.
Making your own Electrolysis Tank - How-Tos and FAQs @ KawiForums.com
http://kawiforums.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=48680
Originally posted by: 03redzx6r
I searched all over the web and there is NOTHING on this except for Electrolysis for hair removal. Anyway, on to what usefulness this gadget has.
If anyone has a piece of iron (cast iron skillet) or steel gas tank from perhaps restoring an old motorbike, this is a great method of cleaning and stripping the paint without the use of harmful chemicals. I got the info from an older friend who restores vintage bikes as a hobby. Working for days myself after unsuccessfully trying to remove all the rust deposits from a 60's Honda CL77 tank, I tried this method and swear by it myself. So thought I'd share with my zx friends in case any of you have some projects that require extensive parts cleaning. Keep note it is not to be used for aluminum as it will completely dissolve. Here's the detailed instructions..........
_____________________________________________________________________
This is like giving someone written instructions on how to make a peanut butter sandwich! Simple task sounds much harder then it really is.
Supply's needed-
- container (tank). This must be a non-conductive and of a size to hold all the components of the system. I use a rubber maid tote, Hold 12 to 15 gal.
- Electrolyte solution; I recommend using sodium carbonate (other chemicals will work but this is the safest) The two best sources of this are, "Arm & Hammer Laundry detergent" (NOT A & H baking soda) and a product for controlling swimming pool Ph, (Ph+) Check to make sure it is sodium carbonate only though. You want nothing that will increase the chlorides in the solution
- Battery charger; It would be best if you could get one with an amp gauge and one that put out 25+ amps. Lower amps will work but will take much longer to do so.
- Anode; nice word for a chunk of scrap iron. I use a chunk of 2 ½ inch black pipe. (Do not use galvanized pipe the process will become hazardous if you do!!) Do not use stainless steel this produces a gas that has been shown to cause cancer in rats! (we don't want to kill any rats now do we?)
- cathode; What ever you are going to clean. Do not try to clean chrome plated or aluminum parts The chrome plating could come off and the aluminum just dissolve away to nothing!
connectors and wires
The set up-
The electrolyte, mix 1 cup to 5 gal of water A&H or 1 cup Ph+ per 10 gal. of water. You are not baking a cake, just get close. You can't put in too much or too little. As for the water tap water will work. Rain water or distilled works better. You can improve the action by getting some fish tank treatment to remove chlorides (as in chlorine) Tap water is full of chlorides (sodium chloride, sodium hypochlorite chlorine , calcium chloride and magnesium chloride to name the most common.) Chlorides will slow the process some. This solution will not go bad. It will get filthy but still work. When you can't stand to look at it any longer poor it on the grass! Plants love it (do not pour on acid loving plants; roses, pines, gardenias… )
You have your tank filled with the electrolyte. Place your anode into the solution in a way so that it is in the solution but can be connected to the positive side of the charger without the charger clip getting into the solution. You will also want to do this in a way it can be easily removed from the tank (you will understand why later)
Connect the cathode (the part to be cleaned) in the solution in a way it can be connected to the negative side of the charger. Use the same criteria as with the anode. Get your part as close to the anode as possible but not touching. Place it with the worst of what you want to remove facing the anode. While the cleaning process is not strictly "line of sight" It seems to be stronger on one side.
OK you are ready to start the process. Turn on the charger. The amp gauge should be showing close to your setting (as high as you can) If it shows nothing check your connections. If you are using the A&H detergent you will miss something neat! Your part and the anode will start to develop small bubbles! The soap suds will hide this. These bubbles are oxygen and hydrogen being removed from the water. The hydrogen part is why we want to do this with good ventilation! We do remember the Hindenburg don't we?
After an hour or so (a lot of variables can affect this) check you anode. If everything is working right it will look like it grew spines! And there may be a green-gray sludge on it as well. Clean it off. I scrap it with a wire brush and water hose. The cleaner you keep the anode the more affective the cleaning! That is why I said to hook it up the way I did. I know you will take this opportunity to look at your part go ahead, you may or you may not see any changes yet. Don't worry about leaving it in there too long You can't! Once all the nasty has been pulled off the GOOD metal it will just continue to break up the water molecules and not harm the part. As soon as you think you are happy with the condition of your part take it out of the tank, use a high pressure water hose to get the loose stuff off. And if you need to put it back in go ahead if not. Dry it and get a coat of rust inhibitor on it ASAP!
I think once you get going you will see it is really very simple. Just remember; positive to the scrap negative to your part. And don't stick your hand in the solution without turning off the charger first! If the amperage is under 30 it should not have any affect but better safe then sorry!
Tried out electrolysis on my rust fuel tank and she
cleaned right up. For those of you who are on a budget it will cost you
next
to nothing to clean your tank. First of all you will need a plastic 5
gallon
bucket, add 1/2 cup of Arm and Hammer Washing Soda. This is important
it’s
Washing Soda not baking soda (see note 1 below). Fill
the bucket with water
and
mix it well. Pull the tank and drain the fuel. Remove the petcock and
wash
out the tank with lots of water. Fashion a cover to block the petcock
orifice.
I used a strip of 1/8" aluminum and used an old inner tube as a gasket.
I
set the tank on a piece of carpet and blocked it up to get it as level
as
possible. I then filled the tank with the washing soda solution. Then I
took
a coat hanger and fashion the sacrificial anode. You say what???? Ok
this
is the trickiest part of the procedure.
A little background on how electrolysis works (see actual photos below):
Its very simple really. As current
passes through an object it moves from negative to positive, so what
you are doing is passing a current through the rust on the tank, which
breaks its bond, and the rust then flows and attaches itself to the
positive charge on the sacrificial anode. Or at least it releases the
rust from the tank and floats around in the washing soda solution. The
idea with the sacrificial anode is
to insure that it does not touch the tank anywhere, you must insure it
only
come in contact with the washing soda solution or you will have a
direct short.
For my project I found a nice little plastic
cap and drilled two 1/8" holes in it about 1" apart. I then took the
coat hanger and bent it over and over until I had four loops on one end
that spread about 1" when grouped together (see fig. 1 below). Think about the
business end of a fork that you eat with, that’s what it should look
like. Then about 4" back from the business end of the fork make a
90-degree bend in the two wires and run them up through the plastic
cap. Put the sacrificial anode into the tank and spin it around to
insure the anode is not hitting anywhere on the tank (no short
circuits) (see fig 2 below).
Then using a 12-volt battery charger hook the positive lead to the
sacrificial anode and the negative lead to the fuel tank. I used the
mounting flange that
sits under the seat (see figs 3 and 4
below). Let her cook for several days. Mine took three days.
I pulled the anode twice a day and cleaned it with a wire brush. I have
a
small battery charger so it may take less time with a larger charger.
Anyway
my tank is back on and this morning I rode her into work and she never
skipped
a beat.
Update: Some of you have asked what did you coat the tank with to stop
further rusting? Nothing. Its bare metal. Some of you guys have
suggested two ways of coating the tank. 1. Use phosphoric acid and
slosh it around to coat the tank. 2. Use POR-15, I have heard this is
the stuff to use. I was also told to stay away from Kreem. The Suzuki
T-500 I own had a fuel tank coated in Kreem and it is crap, so I would
agree.
-Ken for questions, email me at cfsboy@sbcglobal.net
Originally posted by: 03redzx6r
I searched all over the web and there is NOTHING on this except for Electrolysis for hair removal. Anyway, on to what usefulness this gadget has.
If anyone has a piece of iron (cast iron skillet) or steel gas tank from perhaps restoring an old motorbike, this is a great method of cleaning and stripping the paint without the use of harmful chemicals. I got the info from an older friend who restores vintage bikes as a hobby. Working for days myself after unsuccessfully trying to remove all the rust deposits from a 60's Honda CL77 tank, I tried this method and swear by it myself. So thought I'd share with my zx friends in case any of you have some projects that require extensive parts cleaning. Keep note it is not to be used for aluminum as it will completely dissolve. Here's the detailed instructions..........
_____________________________________________________________________
This is like giving someone written instructions on how to make a peanut butter sandwich! Simple task sounds much harder then it really is.
Supply's needed-
- container (tank). This must be a non-conductive and of a size to hold all the components of the system. I use a rubber maid tote, Hold 12 to 15 gal.
- Electrolyte solution; I recommend using sodium carbonate (other chemicals will work but this is the safest) The two best sources of this are, "Arm & Hammer Laundry detergent" (NOT A & H baking soda) and a product for controlling swimming pool Ph, (Ph+) Check to make sure it is sodium carbonate only though. You want nothing that will increase the chlorides in the solution
- Battery charger; It would be best if you could get one with an amp gauge and one that put out 25+ amps. Lower amps will work but will take much longer to do so.
- Anode; nice word for a chunk of scrap iron. I use a chunk of 2 ½ inch black pipe. (Do not use galvanized pipe the process will become hazardous if you do!!) Do not use stainless steel this produces a gas that has been shown to cause cancer in rats! (we don't want to kill any rats now do we?)
- cathode; What ever you are going to clean. Do not try to clean chrome plated or aluminum parts The chrome plating could come off and the aluminum just dissolve away to nothing!
connectors and wires
The set up-
The electrolyte, mix 1 cup to 5 gal of water A&H or 1 cup Ph+ per 10 gal. of water. You are not baking a cake, just get close. You can't put in too much or too little. As for the water tap water will work. Rain water or distilled works better. You can improve the action by getting some fish tank treatment to remove chlorides (as in chlorine) Tap water is full of chlorides (sodium chloride, sodium hypochlorite chlorine , calcium chloride and magnesium chloride to name the most common.) Chlorides will slow the process some. This solution will not go bad. It will get filthy but still work. When you can't stand to look at it any longer poor it on the grass! Plants love it (do not pour on acid loving plants; roses, pines, gardenias… )
You have your tank filled with the electrolyte. Place your anode into the solution in a way so that it is in the solution but can be connected to the positive side of the charger without the charger clip getting into the solution. You will also want to do this in a way it can be easily removed from the tank (you will understand why later)
Connect the cathode (the part to be cleaned) in the solution in a way it can be connected to the negative side of the charger. Use the same criteria as with the anode. Get your part as close to the anode as possible but not touching. Place it with the worst of what you want to remove facing the anode. While the cleaning process is not strictly "line of sight" It seems to be stronger on one side.
OK you are ready to start the process. Turn on the charger. The amp gauge should be showing close to your setting (as high as you can) If it shows nothing check your connections. If you are using the A&H detergent you will miss something neat! Your part and the anode will start to develop small bubbles! The soap suds will hide this. These bubbles are oxygen and hydrogen being removed from the water. The hydrogen part is why we want to do this with good ventilation! We do remember the Hindenburg don't we?
After an hour or so (a lot of variables can affect this) check you anode. If everything is working right it will look like it grew spines! And there may be a green-gray sludge on it as well. Clean it off. I scrap it with a wire brush and water hose. The cleaner you keep the anode the more affective the cleaning! That is why I said to hook it up the way I did. I know you will take this opportunity to look at your part go ahead, you may or you may not see any changes yet. Don't worry about leaving it in there too long You can't! Once all the nasty has been pulled off the GOOD metal it will just continue to break up the water molecules and not harm the part. As soon as you think you are happy with the condition of your part take it out of the tank, use a high pressure water hose to get the loose stuff off. And if you need to put it back in go ahead if not. Dry it and get a coat of rust inhibitor on it ASAP!
I think once you get going you will see it is really very simple. Just remember; positive to the scrap negative to your part. And don't stick your hand in the solution without turning off the charger first! If the amperage is under 30 it should not have any affect but better safe then sorry!
Nobody looks back on his or her life and wishes they'd spent more time at work.
Brotherhood smells like gasoline
Brotherhood smells like gasoline
Tried out electrolysis on my rust fuel tank and she
cleaned right up. For those of you who are on a budget it will cost you
next
to nothing to clean your tank. First of all you will need a plastic 5
gallon
bucket, add 1/2 cup of Arm and Hammer Washing Soda. This is important
it’s
Washing Soda not baking soda (see note 1 below). Fill
the bucket with water
and
mix it well. Pull the tank and drain the fuel. Remove the petcock and
wash
out the tank with lots of water. Fashion a cover to block the petcock
orifice.
I used a strip of 1/8" aluminum and used an old inner tube as a gasket.
I
set the tank on a piece of carpet and blocked it up to get it as level
as
possible. I then filled the tank with the washing soda solution. Then I
took
a coat hanger and fashion the sacrificial anode. You say what???? Ok
this
is the trickiest part of the procedure.
A little background on how electrolysis works (see actual photos below):
Its very simple really. As current
passes through an object it moves from negative to positive, so what
you are doing is passing a current through the rust on the tank, which
breaks its bond, and the rust then flows and attaches itself to the
positive charge on the sacrificial anode. Or at least it releases the
rust from the tank and floats around in the washing soda solution. The
idea with the sacrificial anode is
to insure that it does not touch the tank anywhere, you must insure it
only
come in contact with the washing soda solution or you will have a
direct short.
For my project I found a nice little plastic
cap and drilled two 1/8" holes in it about 1" apart. I then took the
coat hanger and bent it over and over until I had four loops on one end
that spread about 1" when grouped together (see fig. 1 below). Think about the
business end of a fork that you eat with, that’s what it should look
like. Then about 4" back from the business end of the fork make a
90-degree bend in the two wires and run them up through the plastic
cap. Put the sacrificial anode into the tank and spin it around to
insure the anode is not hitting anywhere on the tank (no short
circuits) (see fig 2 below).
Then using a 12-volt battery charger hook the positive lead to the
sacrificial anode and the negative lead to the fuel tank. I used the
mounting flange that
sits under the seat (see figs 3 and 4
below). Let her cook for several days. Mine took three days.
I pulled the anode twice a day and cleaned it with a wire brush. I have
a
small battery charger so it may take less time with a larger charger.
Anyway
my tank is back on and this morning I rode her into work and she never
skipped
a beat.
Update: Some of you have asked what did you coat the tank with to stop
further rusting? Nothing. Its bare metal. Some of you guys have
suggested two ways of coating the tank. 1. Use phosphoric acid and
slosh it around to coat the tank. 2. Use POR-15, I have heard this is
the stuff to use. I was also told to stay away from Kreem. The Suzuki
T-500 I own had a fuel tank coated in Kreem and it is crap, so I would
agree.
-Ken for questions, email me at cfsboy@sbcglobal.net
Note 1: ARM & HAMMER®
Super Washing Soda is 100% sodium carbonate and is used as a laundry
booster and general household cleaner. ARM & HAMMER® Baking
Soda is 100% sodium bicarbonate and has a myriad of household
cleaning, personal care, and deodorizing uses, as well as being a
leavening agent.
Note from Clay: The photos are mine. I used this method on
rather rusty Kawasaki tank I had, and it worked wonderfully. I
lined this tank with the Yamaha brand tank rusr remover/protector
(about $14.00 at my local dealer) and it is holding up well.
Figure
1
Figure 2
1
Figure 2
Figure
3
Figure 4
3
Figure 4
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