Since the clymer wasn't specific to the bike, I figure I'll write this quick how-to on installing pipes to serve as a reference for future 600R owners.
Note: This only applies to zx600c series, or Ninja 600R's between 88-97. This does not apply to the zx-6, zx-6r, or zx-6rr. Installation of exhausts for zx600a/b series is well documented in the Clymer/Haynes manual.
You should have the following:
-replacement exhaust
-exhaust gaskets
-10, 12, 14mm sockets, extension and closed ended wrenches
-various thickness philips head screwdrivers
-various sized allan wrenches
1.) Remove the fairing
-Remove the six (6) lower fairing allan screws and lift the lower fairing by bringing it forward and out to one side. It's a little tricky, but if you angle it correctly, you can do it without scratching or dragging the plastic on the ground or against the bike.
-Remove the six (6) philips screws that secure the windscreen to the upper fairing and remove the windscreen. Excessive force should not be necessary.
-Using the key to twist to unlock the hook on the rear left side, remove the seat straight off the bike.
-Remove the screws on the rear of the side panels
-Pull the vinyl panels/kneepads sideways, off the bike. They are secured by a single tab on the upper fairing. If you're afraid of breaking any plastic, you can reach your finger behind the vinyl panel/kneepad and push on the tab. It'll pop right out. Avoid excessive force as the plastic mounting tabs are easy to break.
-Remove the screws at the bottom of the upper fairing.
-After pulling up on the rubber boot, remove JUST THE LOWER allan bolts from the mirrors. It is not necessary to remove the upper bolts; they screw into the fairing.
-Remove the screws at the top-rear of the upper fairing.
-Slide the entire assembly (upper left fairing, upper right fairing, headlight, and headlight lower cover) forward slightly.
-Reach behind the headlight, grasp the plastic connector, and pull it off the headlight.
-Disconnect the turn signal leads, label apporpriately with masking tape (left, right, color, etc.).
-Standing at the front of the bike, lift the entire assembly towards the front, and off the bike. Do it slowly, and carefully. If it gets stuck on something, look at the point of restriction and move the assembly around to get past the obstacle.
-The headlight, turn signals, upper left fairing, upper right fairing, and lower headlight cover should come off as one unit.
-Place somewhere safe. I found it was easiest to put it on carpet (facing up) and leaning against a wall.
2.) Remove the gas tank
Warning: gas is extrememly flammable. Work in a well ventilated area, at least 50 feet from any open flame. Do not smoke and wipe up spills immediately. SOME GAS WILL SPILL.
-Make sure the ignition switch is off.
-Place the bike on its centerstand.
-Remove the battery cover and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
-Find the fuel level sensor wire (underneath the tank, to the left side) and disconnect it.
-Turn the fuel tap to ON.
-With a rag underneath the fuel line (on the rear of the fuel valve..it's a amber-tinted hose), wiggle the fuel hose loose. If your bike is old like mine, it will need a good amount of wiggling. A FEW DRIPS WILL LEAK. Catch them with the rag. There should be no more gas flowing because the bike works by sucking gas via vacuum.
-Remove the vacuum hose at the front side of the fuel valve.
-Label each tubes respectively.
-Label and remove the drain tubes at the back of the fuel tank and plug them.
-Remove the two bolts that secure the rear of the fuel tank with a 10mm wrench.
-Pull the tank up and to the rear to remove it.
-Place in a safe area.
3.) Drain and remove the radiator
Note: On a few "C" model 600R's, there IS NO OIL COOLER. This is in contrary to what's discribed in the clymer.
Warning: Make sure the engine is cold, or has been sitting six hours.
-Remove the radiator cap from the front right, upper part of the bike.
-Place a wide pan, or use a funnel going into a stable container, under the left side of the bike.
-Slowly remove the drain screw, but BE READY. The radiator fluid is going to come out fast and squirt pretty far.
-Allow the fluid to drain completely.
-On the front, right side of the bike you will see a wire connector next to the radiator. Disconnect it, but be careful if you have an old bike. You don't want to break the wire out of the connector.
-From the fan, find a wire connector/harness going into another electrical connector. Disconnect it.
-Remove the hose connecting the radiator to the reservoir tank, catch any flowing radiator fluid.
-Remove the ECSC connector and route it through the top of the radiator.
-Disconnect the hose leads and route it through the top of the radiator.
-Disconnect the electrical connector connected to the box, that's on the plastic panel above the headers.
-Remove the two bolts holding the plastic panel above the headers. It should now come out. Remove that plastic panel above the headers.
-Loosen the radiator hose bands and slide them off the neck of the hoses. Carefully wiggle the hoses off the radiator, and watch for spilling fluids. There are only three hoses that connect to the radiator: one from the cap, one going to the water pump, and one to the reservoir.
-Remove the upper radiator mounting bolts with a 12mm wrench. There should only be two: one on each side.
-At this point in time, there shouldn't be anything attached to the radiator.
-Push the bottom of the radiator up out of the mount. Pull the whole radiator forward until the metal brackets (that were attached to the plastic panel) are clear of the frame of the bike. Now remove it.
3.) Remove the old exhaust
Now that the extraneous part is done, you do the actual exhaust swap next. Use penetrating fluid (liquid wrench, wd-40, etc.) if the nuts are frozen.
-You can use a closed ended 10mm wrench to remove the outer nuts bounded by the frame of the bike. The rest of the nuts can be removed with a 10mm socket with extension.
-Carefully remove all the nuts, don't round the heads of the nuts.
-Prop up the bottom of the exhaust.
-Remove the rear exhaust pipe mounting nuts that are attached to the muffler. It's a nut/bolt combination. They can be taken off with a 14mm wrench from each side.
-Lower the props, and take off the stock exhaust.
-Remove the gaskets inside the engine block.
4.) Installation of New Exhaust
-Place new exhaust gaskets in place.
-Put the headers into place, and rest them on the engine block. Slide up an exhaust flange, position two split collars into place, and slide the flange against the header pipe through the exhaust studs. Hand-tighten a pair of nuts on that exhaust pipe. Repeat for all other headers. Tighten them so that they're secure, but not completely.
-Position mufflers by slipping them onto the headers. Slide the hole/mounting tab into the rear peg bolt. Position the mufflers so they're aligned and securely mounted on the header pipes. Tighten the mufflers to the headers. Tighten the header nuts to the engine block.
-Tighten the H-pipe nut.
-Finally tighten the muffler bolts to the rear pegs.
-So in short: installation of the new exhaust is the reversal of the removal steps. It might help to position (but NOT secure) the new exhaust headers, mufflers, and H-pipe 1st, then tighten all the screws once everything's lined up. You can get away with using the old gaskets depending on the age/condition of them.
-Remember that the stock headers mount via this technique: the flanges go through the engine block studs, which push split collars (the metal pieces) against the header pipes, which push against the gasket, to the engine block.
-Reassemble everything up to and including the gas tank. Start the bike and check for leaks/jetting operation. If you have slip-ons, theoretically it should run fine as it did with the stock pipes, but jet if necessary. If you had a 4-1 exhaust, jetting is a required step. I've heard it's a good idea to let the engine go through a few heat cycles, then retighten the header nuts.
-Reassmble fairings and also check to ensure the mufflers aren't touching anything that might cause a fire. Make sure you have enough clearance on your heels, the centerstand, and the kick stand. Some exhaust don't allow the centerstand to be in place at all. The swing arm should also be inspected for correct operation.
Ok, that's enough. I'm starting to zone out
I'll edit this after I post and re-read it a few times.
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